whatcha got, bangkok?

grand moving

2011-06-06T07:43:00.000-07:00

bangkok's too small of a pond to explore, so i've expanded onto worldwide travel eating, writing, and generally getting lost.

visit my new site: the Mean, Mean Travel Guide here.

a new and exciting career in...medical tourism blogging?

2010-09-10T05:28:00.000-07:00

i was looking up some tourist information since the happy grunt (and family) are coming to bangkok in a couple weeks and i ran across this:

a blogging contest for medical tourism in thailand!

medical tourism in thailand is hot.

as a foreigner, it's definitely been cheaper for me to get first-rate health care here paying out-of-pocket than it has been to be insured in the US. so it makes sense that the tourism board here would want to promote travel relating to medical procedures and health care.

my local hospital, vejthani, has a massive advertising campaign, soliciting clients worldwide. i even saw them doing "product placement" in thai soap operas. you know, some poor maiden is struck with some horrendous disease and while her nemesis profits from her illness by stealing her boyfriend, you rest assured that she'll improve because she's staying at vejthani. phew!

it's a super long shot for me and my meager blog, but i figured, why not give it a shot. this is exactly the reason why i got a public health degree. thanks, johns hopkins!

thai bread balloon

2010-09-05T21:01:00.000-07:00

"pung weii...heii!"

ปังเว้ยเฮ้ย

western and eastern bread were not created equal. while western bread prizes the development of crust, tooth-someness, and a certain yeastiness, eastern bread delights in airiness, velvety oiliness, and what you can stuff in it.

this is the bread made to addict the thai palate.

"pung weii...heii" makes football-sized buns and loaves that bake up to a fluffy balloon packed (yes, really packed) with fillings. sweet fillings include red bean, blueberry, vanilla cream, raisins, taro, corn, coconut, and chocolate almond among others. savories include pork floss (who knows what else to call it. we chinese call it "ro-song"), tuna salad, ham and cheese, sausage, ham salad, and red pork. before you poo-poo this place as ordinary or un-noteworthy, just try it. i've already been twice this week and have daydreamed about what to try next.

while this place is out of the way (unless you live near a branch), there is a constant flow of people coming to buy regardless of the fact that there is no seating and you have to eat it in your car or take it home. or if you're impatient like me, inhale it immediately before you have a chance to figure out what to do next. who needs seating?

i've had the red bean, taro, and pork floss buns and i'm hooked. each bun is totally heavy because of how much junk they stuff inside. the taro bun was like a paperweight. the pork floss loaf had like a dense brick of pork floss inside. the sweet buns weren't too sweet and very fresh. this is the stuff dreams are made of. of course, while there are so many flavors to choose from, there are several i will NOT be trying - like "butter"!?!? and the "mixed fruit" bun is just stuffed with candied fruit chunks used in fruitcake.

every bun is a steal at 20B. so while you may feel guilty about eating five loaves, your wallet won't.

"pung weii...heii!" (ปังเว้ย...เฮ้ย!)

kaset-nawamin (new) @ marker 138 (it's the road btw nawamin sois 74 & 76, there's a mcdonalds on the corner)

085-444-0580

8am-10pm

other locations:

*town in town (02-539-2119)

*ratchayothin (02-513-5570)

*wachraphon intersection (086-996-9447)

*laksi (02-521-4107)

a better butter

2010-08-16T01:46:00.000-07:00

little home bakery

what american doesn't love a good brunch here and there? what other meal can be leisurely stretched into two meals? what other meal is only socially acceptable on weekends? what other meal can legitimately pack in tons of carbs and butter?

i guess that's what it comes down to: butter. here in asia, the reigning fat solid is an orange, vegetable oil margarine-like substance, whose unmistakable fragrance wafts out of every bakery. it also leaves that distinctive oily aftertaste when you shove down a pork floss bun.

and this is where little home bakery stands tall in its stalwart defense of BUTTER! their goods have the full, rounded flavor of butter. and in case that's not enough for you, your banana pancake (80B) or strawberry waffle (95B) comes with a proud, defiant scoop of white, smooth butter melting in glory.

for those "brunch-should-block-my-arteries" folks, you can always get the american breakfast with two eggs, bacon, pancakes, grilled tomato, fried potatoes, coffee and juice (165B). and for those disgusted by that, you can always order from their extensive thai menu (75-125B).

bright, sunny, half-diner-half-cafe ambience, little home bakery's a perfect spot to meet your friends for butter - i mean, brunch.

little home bakery

thonglor, between soi 23-25

weekdays 8am-9pm, weekends 9am-9pm

webby: http://www.littlehome.co.th/

it's as exciting as toast

2010-07-31T22:15:00.000-07:00

after you

it's dry, it used to be bread, it is light tan - it's toast!

oh ye of little faith, believe me when i tell you this toast is worth it. 3 inches tall and smothered with shibuya honey, nutella, peanut butter & bananas or other scrumptious sundries plus ice cream and whipped cream - this isn't your grandma's toast. this is toast in splendor.

for all ye nonbelievers, don't worry, after you has other desserts. between 4 of us, 5 desserts didn't stand a chance. two toasts, applesauce brownie (with ice cream), baked sundae (lava cookie with ice cream), millecrepe (crepes stacked with whipped cream), and four quadruple bypasses. i pity our arteries and the cow that had to produce all the cream we consumed.

baked sundae oozing

applesauce brownie. light, yet intensely chocolatey.

millecrepe with creme brulee-sugared top.

my only regret was not being able to try one of their many coffee drinks. i am not of the breed who's able to drink coffee at night and not become a vampire. next time, i'm getting my lazy butt up for breakfast (since after you opens at 7am) and throwing down a coffee and a breakfast toast. yes, savory or sweet, you can have your toast at any time of day.

after you

thonglor soi 13, j avenue

desserts 145-200B

open 7am-midnight

02 712 9266

other locations @ paholyothin la villa and central world 7th fl.

she works at night

2010-07-28T21:41:00.000-07:00

smiley "i cream"

walk down pradipat road during the day and you feel like you're in any generic part of asia. you got your stores, your street vendors, your restaurants, your hotels. but glory! when night falls, pradipat explodes into a thriving street-walking hotspot. we can thank the thriving "massage" industry for that (not so glory). all sorts of things come out at night.

you want to get your happy ending?

stop for ice cream. what were you thinking? you and your dirty mind! it's not that kind of post. 270/19 pradipat is a generic gold shop by day - but oh ho! by night, it unfurls as a homemade ice cream shop.

want a sign? too bad, you won't find one. the nice owner-lady had to tell us the name of the shop, "smiley," since apparently secret ice cream shops are more fitting with the massage parlors.

when i went, the very nice lady told us about her ice cream: it's more like sorbet rather than a heavy, thick gelato. hers are refreshing, using traditional thai flavors like farang buey (syrup-soaked guava), dragonfruit & cranberry, or coconut among other traditional flavors like cookies & cream or strawberry.

for 20B a scoop, your ice cream comes with specially paired toppings like spicy sugar or thai sour plums.

i also like the old guy sitting out in the shop. he's like the sweet lady's sour plum - all he said was, "hey, did they pay you, yet?" of course, nothing on pradipat is free.

smiley ice cream

270/19 pradipat rd. (btw soi 19 & 21)

nearest bts @ saphan kwai

no, it's not a gay bar, but it is fabulous

2010-07-07T22:51:00.000-07:00

the fabulous

when i walk down khao san rd, it looks virtually the same as the first time i came to bangkok in 2002. boho backpackers in wannabe beach environs, red bull tees, tribeswomen selling jangling accessories, pad thai every 10m, etc.

that's what makes the fabulous, extra-uber fabulous. this adorable coffee-dessert shop tucked away off of khao san rd is a welcome oasis of retro-style, quiet, and best of all: absence of seediness.

unlike other establishments in the area, this unique shop feels more akin to the cafes along thonglor or ekamai, flaunting its twee ambience. it's cute and it knows it. what else would you expect of a place that has an antique record player actually spinning records that don't play music?

free wifi, illy coffees (70-100+B), desserts (100-160B).

the fabulous

webby: http://groups.to/the_fabulous

32 jakkapong rd, next to the true coffee shop.

hours 10am-12:30am.

02 629-1144

i will punch you in your face

2010-07-05T20:55:00.000-07:00

house of beers

i will fist-fight any person who disputes the superiority of belgian beers. traveling belgium this past spring, it was a personal goal to have a glass of beer in one hand and a cone of pommes frites in the other. i almost cried when luggage restrictions kept me from packing any beers in baggage on the way back to bangkok..

thank god for house of beers, bangkok's happy belgian beer home. they carry 3 of 6 of the belgian trappistes (rochefort, chimay, orval) and a hefty list of other notable bottles (leffe, tripel karmaliet, waterloo, maredsous). you have to trust a brewing tradition that has its origins in trappist monasteries. god himself told them how to make beers. didn't you know that "jehovah brewmaster" is one of god's titles in the old testament? here, true to its name, it really is about the beer - no skimpily dressed waitresses, no extensive food menu, just beer, mussels, and a few other items. and expect to pay for your beer love - they run upwards of 250B for an imported bottle.

personal favorites?

chimay blue: been my favorite beer for years. this one converted me to belgians. just drink one.

tripel karmaliet: surprisingly intensely flavorful with high alc content for a light beer. the triple distillation's no joke.

rochefort 8: out of rochefort's 6, 8, and 10, i think 8's the best. rich maltiness in a clean, dark beer.

maredsous: if you're looking for something a little unusual, try this monastery's beer. slightly more acidic with a distinct peanutty flavor.

waterloo double dark: tried it at HOB for the first time. smooth, creamy, malty - a beautiful dark.

HOB, i'm moving in...just charge it to my tab.

house of beers.

522/3 thonglor (soi 16). "penny's balcony (1F)."

hours: 11am-midnight

02 392-3513

get up; kill and eat

2009-10-04T21:57:00.000-07:00

china house @ the mandarin oriental

in the biblical account of the acts of the apostles...

peter went up on the roof to pray. he became hungry and wanted something to eat, and while the meal was being prepared, he fell into a trance. he saw heaven opened and something like a large sheet being let down to earth by its four corners. it contained all kinds of four-footed animals, as well as reptiles of the earth and birds of the air.
then a voice told him, "get up, peter. kill and eat."

i'm pretty sure that sheet was filled with chinese dim sum.

for my birthday, a good friend treated me to china house's sunday brunch (~1000B/p), which has become my favorite dining experience at the mandarin oriental. forget the usual loud, stock-trading ambience flagging down greasy-smocked ladies pushing stacks of little delights (dim sum literally translates to "touch the heart") and actually enjoy the mod sophistication of shameless red and black contemporary chinese design in private nooks.
starters were beautifully spread in the center atrium, including all the traditional chinese banquet accoutrements (drunken chicken, shark fin soup, cold jellyfish, roast suckling pig, peking duck, etc.) which are continually available. dim sum plates are ordered from their menu, which were introduced to us as "eat what you can." their shanghai and shrimp dumplings were fantastic, as were braised pork belly in XO sauce, wasabi crispy shrimp, salt & pepper fried squid, impossibly soft steamed snow fish, wok-seared (sounds better than stir-fried, huh?) black pepper beef and so much more.

top off what little space you have left with fruits, traditional or fusion desserts and then sit on your (now) plump, pork buns and try to have conversation about something other than how good the food is.

i have to especially acclaim their service. the staff were incredibly adroit and mirthful and i've never felt so comfortably served. also, this place is family-friendly - there's a magician that comes around at 12 to visit the kiddies.

china house @ the mandarin oriental hotel
hours: sunday brunch 11:30-2:30, dinner daily 7-10:30
for reservations, phone 02-669 9000 x7650-1 or email mobkk-restaurants@mohg.com
webby: http://www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/dining/restaurants/china_house/

your perfect greasy picnic

2009-09-21T01:49:00.000-07:00

roti mataba

it's perhaps for everyone's benefit that they don't post roti nutrition facts. i'm willing to bet you could lubricate an entire freight train with the amount of grease roti mataba goes through in a week.step into this infernal, southern-fried kitchen, grab a couple rotis for about 40B each (get the chicken one and one with curry), a wadful of napkins and head across the street to the phra sumen fort & park. picnic on the rim of the chao phraya river overlooking the gorgeous rama VIII bridge and people-watch. this is probably the most relaxing, urban activity you'll find in bangkok. roti mataba, 136 phra athit road, banglumpoo.
phone: 0 2282 2119

we are 1 billion strong, aren't we?

2009-07-28T04:16:00.000-07:00

tong lai shun chinese restaurant

i like being chinese. i like that i am part of an ethnicity that is 1 billion strong. i also like that we chinese are everywhere. is there a country that doesn't have a chinese person? is there a place in this world that doesn't have a chinese restaurant? which i find very favorable, since i likes me some chinese food.

which strikes me as a little weird here that in bangkok, a city that has a TON of chinese people, chinese food is kinda hard to find (at least the kind i'm used to - cantonese, szechuan, shanghai, taiwanese, hunan). my tastebuds yearn for good old fashioned HK dim sum that's not in an overpriced hotel, xiaolong pao filled with meaty broth, hand-pulled noodles that attain that elusive Q-ness, and the calming, rounded signature flavor palette. oh god, i think i'm going to faint.tong lai shun tied me over. this is like chinese "soul food." steamed fish (450B) was just right - the fish light and tender in savoury sauce. eggplant (100B) in "seafood sauce" (originally made because fish was expensive or unavailable, eggplant was prepared in the seasonings used for seafood) was delicious, if not on the oily side. xiaolong pao (100B) were small little delights - eat them *cautiously* fast or the sultry broth congeals upon cooling. the soul-foodiest of them all, mapo tofu (120B), gets a solid manchurian stamp of approval with its thick, spicy sauce with sour pickled cabbage. the standard deep fried green beans (100B) with garlic were on the greasy, limp side, but passable.

and to their credit, they make the rare, beloved sweet potato dessert (150B). sweet potatoes are battered and deep-fried, then covered in a burning hot caramel and served with a bowl of ice water. as fast as humanly possible, fork sweet potato, dunk it into the ice water to harden the caramel and eat it without burning the dickens out of your tongue. it's nirvana. we chinese are a bit "zen" with our cuisine. chinese (cantonese) use the term "wok-kae" referring to the energy of the fire and wok that is in the food. it is meant to be consumed immediately. you wait, you miss the magic. confucius say: eat yo' food hot and fast, sucka.

tong lai chun, sukh 41, alley behind the miracle mall.
10am-10pm (i think)
02-259-0765

joe louis was a puppeteer?

2009-07-28T01:54:00.000-07:00

joe louis theater puppet show

the famous puppeteer, sakorn yangkhieosot, had a nickname that was eventually mispronounced "lui" and then was subsequently re-nicknamed "joe louis." (of if you're my friend from pomona, ca. who knows 800 people named "jose luis," has unintentionally re-nicknamed him again.) so, sorry all you boxing fans; thai puppetry is perhaps the furthest thing from man-pummeling.

for anyone with the means, i grab you by the shoulders and implore you to visit the joe louis theater. thai puppetry is so uniquely thai and performed so fluidly; it is thoroughly enjoyable. it is an impressive feat of choreography as each thai puppet requires 3 people to operate it. and not only that, each operator also mimicks the motions and stance of the puppet, so all three puppeteers and puppet act as one synchronized performer. traditional thai musicians and narrators accompany in characteristic half-chant-half-song. the show is entirely in thai with barebones english captions to communicate what is happening in each scene, yet is completely understandable by the adept performance. it's amazing what emotions puppets are able to express (ever see "being john malkovich"?).
currently, they're showing "the birth of ganesh," portraying ganesh's origin - a "large child" created from the sweat (yes, sweat!) of a high god's reincarnated courtesan after war broke out in heaven. he got the elephant head because his father didn't realize he was his son and decapitated him in war. then he resurrected him and found a replacement head by asking his servant to go in a northerly direction and cut off the head of the first creature that was facing a westerly direction. but you knew that already, didn't you?thai puppeteers regard puppets with great respect, referring them to as "him" or "her" rather than "it" and making an offering of respect to the artist's forefathers at the start of each show. afterwards, the actors also invite any interested audience members to pay their respects or make merit to ganesha.

joe louis theater, suan lum night bazaar
"birth of ganesha" shows nightly 8-9:15p, documentary at 7:30 (thai only)
900B/foreign adult, 400B/thai adult, 450B/foreign adult with thai work permit, 300B/child or students with id.
webby: www.thaipuppet.com

a better roast

2009-07-27T21:36:00.000-07:00

kuppa

in this coffee-saturated city, kuppa is the only place i've found that roasts their own coffee beans imported from across the globe. impressed and delighted as i was, i didn't buy any because it's REALLY expensive (it's on par with san francisco or new york prices). that pretty much sums up my kuppa experience: impressed, delighted, price-shocked.

kuppa's ambiance is elegant, open and assuredly casual - oooh. their pastry case houses horking, drool-inducing, showboat desserts - ahhh. they proudly display their curious coffee roasters and serve excellent coffee - oooh. culinary standards are executed with superb quality (eggs benedict, sorbets, pastas) - oooh. their confident, spot-on creativity makes you want to slap someone (duck, salmon) - ahhh. the bill...WHAAAA?

introduction: get a salad. they're really big (enough to feed several people) and fittingly dressed. 3 of us ordered the mixed salad (160B) and roasted vegetables (195B) which went nicely together.
body 1: i have a weakness for duck prepared in its own fat (doesn't that sound unkosher?). duck confit with watercress, orange sauce (495). i was skeptical of the orange sauce; now i'm a believer.
body 2: miso salmon (420), was one of 3 offerings of salmon. tasty. pesto shrimp pizza (295) was on the cheesier end of the spectrum. i probably wouldn't get it again.
body 3: eggs benedict. you gotta love a breakfast-all-day place, especially one that makes a mean eggs benedict. thank god for angioplasties.
conclusion: topped off with a happy, pistachio crepe (195) & fresh fruit with lychee sorbet (195) that makes your brain override your stomach's fullness.

for those with no need to be concerned with cost, kuppa is a sure-fire win. the food is undebatably delicious. the venue is charming and classy and relaxed. for those with a budget, start saving or start convincing yourself it's a kuppa sour grapes.

maybe i can find a rich boyfriend...

kuppa, 39 sukh 16. (bts: asoke)
10a-11:30p, closed every last monday of the month.
02-663 0495
closed every last monday of the month

buddha has size 400 feet.

2009-07-27T16:15:00.000-07:00

wat pho

every tourist makes a requisite visit to the grand palace and the temple of the emerald buddha. there is nothing else in the world quite like it. wat pho is like the neglected step-child situated just next door. those with extra time make the stop here.

i love wat pho. it's more serene, it seems as if more thai people actually come to make merit, and it's unique. wat pho is known for its prestigious massage school (you can get a traditional thai massage by a student - though it's usually more expensive than other traditional thai massages) and i like the painted anatomy diagrams that i'm convinced influenced the illustration of the poor patient of the "operation" game.also, you can see a giant reclining buddha. why is he reclining? i'm not really sure. my dad made a lame joke about how a standing buddha couldn't fit in the temple. nyuk nyuk. seriously, this reclining buddha is gigantically impressive with his massive feet embedded by myriad reliefs made of mother-of-pearl. and if you're into making merit, you can exchange your big-bill bahts for a wadful of coin bahts to drop into the chain of alms bowls, clinking all the while.if you're looking for thai herbal products or remedies, the street lining the north wall of wat pho has a slurry of shops hawking traditional oils, teas, powders, elixirs (how many opportunities can you legitimately find to use that word), and and other homeopathic tools.

wat pho, maharat road. near the grand palace on the side of the river.
50 baht entrance for foreigners.

i've got a ticket to ride

2009-07-27T02:43:00.000-07:00

passport bookstore

unfortunately, the english translation of the thai name of this shop doesn't adequately catch the play on words. the thai literally translates to "travel book store," which for some reason still doesn't sound as cool as the thai. passport is an adorable, narrow, little shop with its walls stacked to the ceiling with books. they even have those enchanting ladders that slide along the walls to enable you reach those high altitude books. most of passport's stocks (new and used) are thai, but they carry a notable number of interesting english books. i just bought "the curious incident of the dog in the nighttime" from passport and i give two gung-ho thumbs up.

the staff are also super friendly and helpful. they even tried to convince me to buy the cheaper, used version of the novel. it's nice when shops don't give you the feeling of just wanting your cash. coffees, teas and espresso drinks are also served so you can camp out with your book o' choice.passport bookstore, 142 phra athit rd, phranakorn.
(near the queen's gallery)

what i learned about life from the dusit zoo

2009-07-02T21:11:00.000-07:00

dusit zoo

if you're looking for an mind zoological experience, don't come to the dusit zoo. if you're looking for a fun day with a bunch of animals, here's your place. forget the many precautions of the west, throw up a little fence or window and you're up close and personal with the beasts.

on psychology:
"warfare. sometimes we are agressive and fight each other." the other monkeys are projecting their frustrations from the failing economy.
on body image: why not lay around in a pool naked with your friends? on diet: "we can choose which special plant to eat when we are sick for medicinal purposes." i guess you could call some purposes "medicinal"...on dating: "[they] may spray their scent on trees or rocks to mark their territory, the scents given out by females shows signs of readiness to mate." so that's the piece i've been missing!"myth = eating tiger meat, es-pecially the sex organs will give you special power. wrong. tiger meat is just another protein like any animal meat, eating tiger meat is unlawful." man! i was really craving a tiger-testicle-burger.
and lastly...
on etiquette:
keep your hands to yourself! yes, that is a picture of a dismembered human hand in a crocodile's mouth.
dusit zoo, 71 rama v, dusit.
open 8a-6p. 100B - foreigner entrance fee.
webby: www.dusitzoo.org

dining with mr. colonialism

2009-06-21T17:58:00.000-07:00

mandarin oriental

one gets the distinct feeling of crossing into another time when entering the mandarin oriental...classy, ornate, luxurious colonialism. what gives you that cozy imperial feel at the mandarin oriental? aside from ac, the main areas of the hotel remain cloaked in british colonial decor, the thai staff in 19th century waitstaff garb, a string quartet serenades lobby loungers with classical chamber music.

overall, i'd have to say my opinion of the mandarin oriental is mixed (though, i do need to qualify that because i have yet to stay as a hotel guest). the property is beautiful and enchanting, quality superb, but i never felt terribly comfortable any of the times i've dined at the mandarin oriental because service has been slightly spotty, and - maybe i'm crazy - but, you get the feeling of being watched and evaluated.

no one will dispute that cuisine at the mandarin oriental is delicious and a sensually wonderful experience. so, here are my 3 dining ratings in order of preference.

1. barbecue terrace. situated on the outdoor patio adjacent to the chao phraya river, the balmy, lamplit dinner buffet is unlike most buffet incarnations. though extensive in its own right, this buffet is about quality, not quantity. duck liver mousse, rack of lamb, sirloin steak, inventive herbed salads, grilled horseshoe crabs, i couldn't stop saying "wow! this is amazing." this is the first buffet ever where i've taken my time. each dish is able to stand on its own. i still dream about it and my mouth is totally watering as i write this. service at the buffet is also exemplary; attentive while not overbearing, the waitstaff kept our table clean and deftly anticipated our beverage and flatware needs (honestly, it was like over 12 pieces of silverware). yeah, that's why it's 2,200B. as god as my witness, i will satiate my hunger there again! (sorry, i didn't take pictures, it felt too plebeian)

2. high tea in the author's lounge. sunned and couched in wicker and rattan british garden furniture, sepia pictures of the royal family line the walls over shelves of literature by joseph conrad and other authors who have stayed at the mandarin oriental, high tea is a unique affair that's worth a try (if you're into dainty teas). one set (1050B) including a pot of tea, finger sandwiches and pastries is good for 2 people for a light lunch. the plain scone was fantastic as was the white jasmine and the signature oriental blend teas. definitely do not get the thai tea set - you can get the same ordinary thai desserts anywhere else for a tenth of the price. no reservations. my two beefs with the afternoon tea are 1. pricey for a standard tea and 2. service was on the snootier side (we actually complained to the management).3. verandah. also situated on the outdoor patio over the chao phraya river, this is the "affordable" elegant dining option. entrees ranging from 200-500B, they're respectable dishes hitting both sides of the western and thai spectrum. perhaps the most casual of its restaurants, the verandah is a great place to have your lively, smart conversation. sound service.i do need to also mention that the mandarin oriental has a batch of other restaurants including: le normandie, lord jim's, sala rim naam, the china house, ciao, and bamboo bar and also a spa across the river.

mandarin oriental hotel. 48 oriental ave, off of charoen krung (closest bts at saphan taksin - complimentary boat shuttle at the pier)

*newsflash* i've heard that because of the economic downturn, and along with other hotels, the mandarin oriental is offering special promotions in their restaurants as well, including sunday brunches at select restaurants and such.
webby: mandarinoriental.com/bangkok and a snazzy little brochure

let them see art

2009-06-15T21:06:00.000-07:00

queen's gallery

this is my absolute favorite place to see thai art. it supports and features contemporary thai artists and has frequently changing exhibits on its many stories, and often showcases students' art. one thing immediately noticeable is a thai aesthetic that differs from a western, or specifically, an american one, both in content and in style. tradition and a traditional way of life is honored and upheld widely and portrayed with a sense of longing for its revival. intricate and ornate designs and patterns within a large piece of art is also common. and at 20B a pop for admission, you can come admire thai art all the time.there's also a modest coffee shop with a few souvenirs available so you can discuss the art you've seen while satisfying your caffeine addiction.

queen's gallery, 101 ratchadamnoen klang rd, rattanakosin
02-281-5360-1, hours 10a-7pm, closed wednesdays. 20B admission.
webby: www.queengallery.org

sound of silence

2009-06-08T01:05:00.000-07:00

kanchanaburi

for history buffs, kanchanaburi is the sleepy province a stone's throw from bangkok perfect for lazing around, catching up on ww2 history, and enjoying tranquil, understated natural landscapes.
fast fact = the original name of the river is actually "mae klong" and was renamed "kwai yai" in 1960.

accomodations:
the oriental kwai resort is entirely peaceful and relaxing. go here if you want to do nothing. the owners evelien and joe were incredibly warm yet out-of-the-way. the resort's 10-or-so cottages are situated on the river kwai and scattered on the resort's lush landscape. the oriental kwai is beautifully designed, in its crimson, cream, and teak motifs - blending thai styles with simple western forms.my favorites: large dvd collection, pool toys (yes, i am an adult), hammocks, great resort restaurant (thai and dutch dishes that we never got tired of). i can't say we were disappointed there isn't more of a bustling tourism industry in kanchanaburi because we literally ate every meal and didn't leave the resort out of sheer lounging delight. i say supine is the best way to vacation.oriental kwai resort
bungalows 2,400-4,400B/night. 03-458-8168
webby: http://www.orientalkwai.com/

movie plug:
one of the tastes i wish i could acquire is for old movies. my preference for pacing and editing lies more with contemporary film. since we were at the river kwai, we figured bridge on the river kwai was worth a viewing. the 1957 seven academy-award-winning film based on the novel "bridge over the river kwai" explores themes of loyalty, heroism, achievement, and survival over the construction of the thai-burma railway built by the japanese conscripting p.o.w. musclepower during w.w.2 and was surprisingly engrossing for an oldie. at the end, all seven of us viewers were yelling at the screen - which for me means good movie. (p.s. if you hate watching movies with back-talkers, never watch a movie with me). do stuff:
part of the thai-burma railway, the bridge on the river kwai, though once destroyed by the allied forces in w.w.2, has been rebuilt and now a tourist attraction. over 100,000 civilians and p.o.w's lost their lives during the japanese-driven construction of this railway, built without consideration of loss of life. you can now walk across this small, steel bridge, or, ride a train over the bridge and back for 20B.floating restaurant. this restaurant adjacent to the infamous "bridge on the river kwai" is often just called "floating." specializing in seafood, their menu has an extensive selection of river fish, sea fish and other sea creatures. slightly pricey at around 150-400B/entree and a popular stop for tour groups, we ordered too much food and ate it all. i recommend the ruby fish with green mango salad (the fish itself was incredibly fresh and delicious) and the *misnamed* deep-fried banana salad. this "laab blaa-tu" was delicious and but, oh my god, so spicy.
getting there:
it's easiest to rent a car and drive yourself there or hire a car. check out kanchanaburi's tourism site for their recommended airport pick-ups and services.
webby: http://www.kanchanaburi-info.com/en/index.html

have i ever told you the story...

2009-06-01T05:51:00.000-07:00

the chocolate tales

...when i savored delicious, dense, rich cheesecake in bangkok? when it comes to cheesecake, i uphold the gold standard to be junior's in brooklyn, the dense, thick, creamy, classic cheesecake. the kind so hefty you have to hold it on your tongue to let the white gold melt. (thank god it takes time to eat, otherwise you might have to eat it with a defibrillator on hand). some find it to be too dry or too heavy. in my opinion it means you don't like cheesecake, then. the lighter, milkier cheesecake (like at coffee beans by dao) resembles more of a cream or cheese pie to me. fine for what it is, but not cheesecake.

a friend raved about the chocolate tales' cheesecake and i kept my fingers crossed. i'd already decided not to eat any cheesecake - my tummy was rumbly and the thought of eating heavy dairy sounded nauseating. well, the mind holds power over the body and we ordered a mixed berry new york cheesecake because it just looked stunning - the color, the height, consistency along with a white chocolate brownie cheesecake, each at 120B/slice. they were fantastic, not as thick as junior's, but delicious and worthy of respect. paired with a lavazza americano (70B), it was perfect...until my already disgruntled tummy had words with me. we all know that we just have to sacrifice the tummy sometimes for the greater good of the tastebuds. the chocolate tales also has other pastries on display, like a matoom cake, chocolate horlicks cake and crepes and parfaits on their menu. i'm interested in trying some of their specialty chocolate drinks but i'm afraid of developing instant type 2 diabetes.

the chocolate tales
silom soi 7, intersecting with narathiwat ratchanakarin soi 3. nearest bts @ chongnonsi.
100-300B. 02-2340210
webby: www.thechocolatetales.com (site not yet up)

urban retreat

2009-05-28T23:11:00.000-07:00

phranakorn norn-len โรงแรมพระนคร-นอนเล่น

what happens when a former thai beauty pageant queen joins the green and grassroots movement? she opens phranakorn norn-len (aka p.n.), the "urban retreat," the trendy, rustic, eclectic, artsy, and quirky boutique guesthouse. written up in travel guides, international travel mags and even timetm magazine, this place is the trendiest of it's breed.

my fave features:
- "she's crafty, and she's just my type." p.n. is all about the creative use of old things. every floor hall houses a mural of a different theme, their gift shop is stocked with traditional and indie handcrafts, and their room decorations are bright uses of the traditional thai-country fabrics.- organic rooftop garden. they grow herbs and veggies up top with a loungy sitting area.- organic vegetarian (sort of) breakfast. inventive, simple, sensible portion size. last time i had breakfast, p.n. served mushroom & cheese egg wraps, mango & sticky rice, and green papaya salad. - really friendly service. you can tell the employees like working here.

things i feel "ehh..." about:
- hard to find. virtually no taxi drivers know how to get there. you'd best print out the map from their website.
- rooms are pretty small. like two-queen-beds-slid-next-to-each-other small.- no tvs. i like watching tv. sue me.
- it's pretty expensive. at 2400B a night, you could stay at a really ritzy hotel. but, if you're about the experience and the slower pace, this is your place.

phranakorn norn-len hotel
2400B+/night
46 thewet soi 1, phranakorn district. 02-6288188-90
webby: http://www.phranakorn-nornlen.com/

fireflies and loveliness

2009-05-15T04:21:00.000-07:00

amphawa floating market

after my trip to the damnoen saduak floating market, i was content to never visit a floating market again. the 2 hour travel, contrived "traditional way-of-life," overpricing, and hordes of tourists were a turn-off, to say the least.thank god for redemption; after visiting amphawa floating market, my faith in floating markets has been restored. so, hurry up and get your butt over to amphawa before it gets dirty and stops being quaint and charming. the market open weekends, friday to sunday.

do stuff:
amphawa is known for its fireflies, which can be admired year-round, but in greatest abundance in hot season (apr-may). take an evening longtail boat tour down the river for 60B/person and watch the riverbanks flicker like christmas trees. most tours include other sites along the river, like fishing spots, temples, and sugar palm-making homes. plenty of companies along the market have tours that are all pretty much the same. take your pick.
you, too, can shop! the amphawa is much more of a DIY community than many other tourist spots, so we were able to find many more handmade and creative wares. the handmade glow-in-the-dark firefly cell phone charms at 39B each were my favorite souvenirs there. you know you want one.

just for a moment, suppose anthropologie and thailand had a lovechild. taramart is that lovechild. the first floor boutique sells hip, yet rustic, brightly printed tops and thai fishing pants and lady-bags while the eclectic, country-meets-chic second floor tea room has bright, inventive tea blends at 85B a pot. 081-696-4797
eats:
staying true to thai form, a great trip must have great eats. and as small as it is, there is so much great food at amphawa. in my opinion, these are the requisite "best eats"
*ice creams and sorbets at kumpan (กำปั่น) restaurant are homemade and delightfully thai. we tried (from l-r) star-gooseberry sorbet, apricot-guava sorbet, and coconut un-chun ice cream (our fave) for 35B a cup. *grilled river prawns. oh no, you shall not call these shrimp, for shrimp are not the length of your hand. these are prawns. and they are delicious. buy a plateful for 30B, then promptly buy another.*khao griap (ข้าวเกรียบ). a foot in diameter and impossibly delicate, lightly sweetened, grilled rice crepes. sorry, i forgot to take a picture, but it's worth buying a 20B bag of 3 crepes here, since everyone else's version tends to be a thicker, deep-fried, or savory version.

*amphawa also has a ton of beautifully-presented and delicious traditional thai snacks and desserts that are too numerous to list or even recommend. just eat your way around.
fat = happy, right?accomodations:
thanicha resort
amphawa is known for their "homestays" which means anything from crashing on some family's floor to a bed & breakfast. thanicha boutique resort is a charming thai-style teak bed & breakfast within walking distance from the market, modest and simple rooms and friendly service. it's like staying at a friend's house. you know, your hip, retro-traditional thai friend with 10 or so extra rooms. it was lovely.webby: www.thanicha.com/indexe.htm
03-472-5511

getting there:
amphawa floating market is in samut songkhram, and a mere 13km from damnoen saduak.
ac vans from victory monument, mo chit, and the southern bus terminal for 70-100B (depending on where they drop you off) that leave hourly (or more frequently, if busy).
also buses from the southern bus terminal.

what time is it?

2009-05-04T21:37:00.000-07:00

Wine O'Clock

Well, if it's between 11-2 at "Wine O'Clock" Italian restaurant on Suk 49-- it is time to get a delicious and awesome pasta dish for 99 baht!
lunch menu features:
Four kinds of pasta
Four categories of sauce to choose from (red, cream, garlic/wine, and Thai curry) with about 8 variations of each sauce
Then, you can add a salad (3 choices) for only 49 baht!

The restaurant is situated on an adorable soi, and has an nice "alfresco" patio for cooler days. Inside, the walls are decorated in cork (which somehow comes across as classy) and the seating ranges from black leather couches for lounging to cozy corner tables. The ambiance is comfortable and the staff is attentive.

Every meal starts with freshly warmed french bread, oil and vinegar. Mineral water is 30 baht/bottle and the house wine starts at 250 baht/glass. (The white was delicious)

I ordered a mixed salad- lovely meslun leaves, tomatoes, onion with a light vinaigrette (they also ground fresh pepper! Hooray for traditionally served Italian food.)- followed by spaghetti with sausage in a saffron sauce. It was amazing. Served with fresh parm. Michelle had linguini with melanzane (eggplant and tomato) sauce, also a nice flavor.

I loved this restaurant so much the before we were done eating I started making plans to eat here again... later this week!

Check it out: Wine O'Clock 55/1 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-7895.

update: (michelle 5.11.09) true to her word, lexie and i did come back and i was so impressed with the saffron sausage that i ordered it again. unfortunately, it was served to me as "thai sausage" with a generous portion of chiles and no cream sauce. so, i pointed out to the server that this wasn't what i ordered. he then proceeded to tell me that i was wrong and that this was really the saffron sausage pasta and even brought over the menu - which i then pointed out was supposed to be a cream sauce and was different than the dish we ordered just one week ago. annoyed, he took the dish back and then came back with the same dish, except this time with cream in the dish and he said as he gave it to me, "it's the same, just with whipping cream." honestly, i'm not a stickler for superb service, but i don't appreciate service where they try to prove the customer wrong when they themselves have made a mistake and without considering the possibility of a mistake. and then, once the mistake has been acknowledged, my dish was altered and not corrected, and served back to me without apology. the altered dish, honestly, was tasty, but i was just so turned off by the way they handled it. is it too much to ask to get what you order and not made to feel like an ass?
i was so for you, wine o'clock, why'd you have to go and ruin it?

stop and smell the roses

2009-05-04T04:28:00.000-07:00

pak khlong night flower market

you want flowers? you go here.
buy arm-fulls of orchids, roses, daisies, ferns, carnations, jasmine, marigolds and lotuses for scandalously cheap prices. flowers are sold wholesale mainly for flower vendors, meaning most things are sold in bulk quantiites. a bunch of 100 roses runs about 50-100B, depending on size and color and condition.it's worth going in the middle of the night simply for the fragrance emitted by the millions of fresh flowers - because really, when do you need like 100 orchid stems? you can buy flowers in smaller quantities at slightly greater cost as well, especially the ones that are rarer.

pak khlong night flower market
~250m northeast of the memorial bridge (saphan phut) on the chao phraya river; intersection of thanon chakphet and ban mo.
open all day, flowers best bought at night when freshly delivered.

god bless the military

2009-05-04T03:03:00.000-07:00

JUSMAG

it isn't the gourmet delicacies and rare ethnic fare that make their residence in my brain's craving cortex, it's the common, the mundane, and the frequent conveniences i miss: the bagels, the sandwiches, the cereal. and because i refuse to spend $10 on a box of cereal, it's a forlorn memory of the familiar here.

i wouldn't have found the jusmag if a friend hadn't told me about it. why? because it's the joint u.s. military advisory group. the little hidden secret is the little diner-esque restaurant inside the complex. 60B usda hamburgers, deli sandwiches, 300B usda steak, bbq pork sandwiches that are nothing more than pork with kc masterpiece sauce...don't expect special, just expect dime-a-dozen american.the heavy, easily-missed steel door on the street requires your us govt-issued id to pass security. and once you're in the jusmag complex, the restaurant in the back is quiet, fluorescently lit, and pastel vinyl furnishings, the basic crowd is primarily jusmag personnel, vets, and other americans running errands at the jusmag, lending a small-town dive environment. even the wait staff, though thai, are quite un-thai in their indifferent, distracted airs. they might as well have blue hair, horn-rimmed glasses, and huge butts.

off to the side, there are american snacks available, meaning you can pick up pop tarts, mounds bars, cream soda, combos and dr. pepper as readily as you can in the states.

also, they have a us postal service office, barber shop, and athletic courts on campus, but no staff was available to tell me if it's available for all us citizens to use or military/govt personnel only. comment if you know.

jusmagthai
south sathorn rd., across from the suan lum night bazaar.
restaurant: mon-sat 6:30a-3p; bar opens 3p
webby: http://www.jusmagthai.com/jusmagthai.html

chiang mai, v. 2.0

2009-03-23T22:43:00.000-07:00

chiang mai

i'm sure this will only be #2 of many chiang mai visits. such a manageable-sized city. so many natural attractions. so much culture.
biggest tip: rent a motorcycle for ~250B/24 hours and go wherever you like. on to the attractions!

going up doi suthep-pui... the doi suthep-pui national park is the closest national park to chiang mai city and sits just north-west of the city. easy to get to, you can take a red pick-up (song taew) from anywhere in the city. aside from the huay kaew and montathan waterfalls (in my last chiang mai post), head up a little further for this legend:
king na naone of the lanna kingdom in the 14th century got a hold of a buddhist relic (buddha's shoulder bone?) and stuck it on the back of a white elephant and released it into the jungle, proclaiming, "may this elephant stop suddenly when it reaches a suitable place to house this relic." it ran up the mountain and at some point stopped to rest and trumpeted three times. so the king built wat phalad on that site. it sits over a stream that runs down the mountain. quite peaceful and scenic with no tourists whatsoever. no anybody really. shrines overlooking the mountain stream. the elephant went further up the mountain, reached a point where it stopped, turned around 3 times, trumpeted another 3 times and then died. so the king built wat phratat doi suthep on that site, which is a major tourist attraction. i'm a horrible person to review wats since there are just sooooo many in thailand and they just are the same after a while. what's different about this wat doi suthep? it's big, it's well-kept, it overlooks the mountain, and has a heart-rate raising staircase up to the wat. besides that, it's kind of like every other wat in thailand.lots of vendors at the base of the wat. here's a vendor with her daughter adorned in traditional hill-tribe dress selling northern thai sausages. 100B entrance fee for non-thais.

further up doi suthep and unrelated to the white elephant legend, phuping palace is one of the royal vacation houses that the royal family still uses. while the buildings are closed to the public, the extensive landscaped grounds are available to stroll. if you like botanical gardens, you'll enjoy phuping palace. 50B entrance for non-thais, 20B thai.

as the fifth highest peak in thailand, doi pui is still further up the mountain and offers a 3km (roughly 1-2hr loop) hike up to the summit from the campsite. it is quite a hike, the second half being more difficult terrain than the first. don't expect a spectacular view at the top, it's mostly blocked by jungle. see? but, if you like hiking, it is a very good and unpopulated hike and it's free. here's part of the trail:
khantoke...
khantoke is a northern thai tradition of serving a meal on a raised tray (called "toke") to honored guests. in the 50s, a businessman invented modern khantoke to entertain special vips, introducing the now widely available popular dinner show. sit on the floor, enjoy unlimited northern thai food, and watch some great thai dancing and traditions. there are several venues ranging in price all over the city. i visited two, the original khantoke dinner called the old chiang mai cultural center and khum khantoke. overall, i'd say that khum khantoke is a better experience but i had a lot of fun at both and wholeheartedly recommend both.
just cause you want to know, here are pros/cons of each.
old chiang mai cultural center: well-established, better dancers (you can tell they pick their dancers by their skill over their attractiveness/size), separate hill tribe show performed by actual members of each of those tribes, 370B/person (including food, pick-up and drop-off at your hotel).
webby: http://www.oldchiangmai.com/index_en.php khum khantoke: it's more of a "show," meaning that it's more about the photo-taking and the production. better food, prettier venue, more photo ops (for tips), really fun. cons are that it's a bit pricier at XXX, further out of the way.
webby: http://www.khumkhantoke.net/

gardens...
i'm getting tired of writing so these reviews will have to be in haiku form.
tweechol botanic garden:
sculpted shrubbery
nature manipulated
hey, it's a hotel!webby: http://www.tweecholbotanicgarden.com/map.php
ratchaphruek garden:
celebrate the king
international landscape
a fading world's fair
free admission, open 10a-6p except mondays, located next to the night safari.

mae sa valley...
home to various orchid farms, elephant farms, monkey centers, and hill tribe cultural centers, there's a lot to do the mae sa valley (25 km north of chiang mai).
mae sa waterfall - you like to semi-vigorously hike? 10 tiers of waterfalls and a heart-stimulating 1+km hike.
eats (honorable mentions)...
the salsa mexican restaurant - inventive tasty mexican food (and jamaican, too). even more than the food, i have to promote their mexican coffee. liqueur-y, creamy, subtly orangey, spiced, delicious mexican coffee. it warrants suffering through consuming caffeine late at night. located on huay kaew, just NE of the central mall.

libernard cafe - a plus coffee. homey bungalow ambience. hippie-foodie-friendly banana whole-wheat pancakes. being there, you just want to hug somebody. hidden off the main street at 41 moon muang.the amazing sandwich - you want to feel like you're in america? go get a no-frills, no-nonsense sandwich you'd make if you weren't too lazy to buy all the imported ingredients. webby: http://www.amazingsandwich.com/

until next time, chiang mai...

siem reap

2009-03-23T04:59:00.000-07:00

siem reap, cambodia

now cambodia's top travel and tourist destination, surpassing phnom penh, siem reap means "the siamese were defeated." siem reap is smaller than expected with most of its recreation activities being angkor wat or one of the myriad ngo's.

angkor wat archaelogical park
enough angkor wat pictures, already! everybody does angkor wat at sunset, pb at sunset or maybe pre rup and how can you forget ta phrom with the giant trees growing out of the temple. depending on your adventurousness and temple-interest, you could spend up to 3 full days exploring. i got templed out and made small jaunts out to frolic in the ruins. it's grand and inspiring nonetheless. i particularly liked that so many of the facades were pleasantly smiling figures; it lends a playfulness to the wear of time.

artisans d'angkor
ngo dedicated to artistic conservation and education. head over to their lacquerware complex or their silk farm to take a tour of their facilities, watch art being made and taught and buy some pricey, high-quality souveneirs.
webby: www.artisansdangkor.com

fcc - the fcc complex hosts a few small galleries most interesting being the red gallery, featuring contemporary cambodian artists and the mcdermott gallery, showcasing john mcdermott's iconic and ethereal photography of angkor wat.located at pokambor ave. webby: www.fcccambodia.com/angkor

eats: butterflies garden restaurant boasts a meal amongst a tropical butterfly garden. i think i saw like 3 butterflies. decent cambodian and western menu.
webby: www.butterfliesofangkor.com

streetside "plai tuek-doh koh" or "milk fruit" tastes like a larger, softer, very sweet and refreshing persimmon. very nice.
fcc - also at this hotel complex, resides chic and cosmopolitan haute cuisine in the open air. happy hour ($1 draft beers, 50% off all other drinks). fresh, verdant salads. moroccan beef sandwich was superb topped with pickled carrots and goat cheese, sided by potato straws. webby: http://www.fcccambodia.com/angkor/angelina's - loose beef baguette burger. it doesn't say it's "loose beef," but i like that phrase and that's what it is. angelic, pillowy baguettes made by ecole hotel's culinary school; i bought a half-dozen loaves to bring back to thailand. located in the old market area.
the strong of heart and stomach can try the street cambodian baguettes - fatty braised pork belly, green papaya salad (more relish-like), au jus, chili sauce, cucumber. i prefer the vietnamese incarnation, but this one's a dollar full stomach.

accomodations: pavillion d'orient
in addition to the many charms of pavillion d'orient they have all the comforts you need (read: want): saltwater pool, spa, unlimited wi-fi, above and beyond service, personal driver, nightly cambodian bedtime story (and movie guide). it's the small surprises that endear. i promise that you will adore this place.webby: http://www.pavillon-orient-hotel.com/

here are my top 10 handy dandy travel tips to siem reap:
1. bring plenty of $1USD bills. i found it easier to get around on US cash than changing to cambodian riel or using thai baht (the exch isn't as good for baht). things are so cheap that you could get by solely on $1s and $5s.
2. drink the surprisingly good and local angkor beer and abc stout (8%alc!)
3. be a generous tipper. most hotel workers (or other vocations at that level) earn about $50-60/mo even at luxury resorts, keeping them in working poverty. a couple extra dollars is trivial for you and makes a huge difference for those who are serving you.
4. enjoy the cambodians. don't overlook these resilient, kind and gentle people. try to hear some of their stories; i'm amazed over and again.
5. eat bread. being a former french protectorate, delicious baguettes and croissants abound. i gasped when i first tasted such a flaky, light, buttery croissant my first morning.
6. do your research - not all ngos are beneficial to cambodians. check into them before donating.
7. take it easy. unlike other tourist destinations, siem reap is pretty small and doesn't have much other than angkor wat and some smaller attractions. stop running around and enjoy your company.
8. buy a krama or scarf. they're cheap, they're versatile, they're currently hip in the west, and you can find them virtually anywhere.
9. keep your smile on. nobody likes a sourpuss. and don't be an ass to the kids and vendors selling souveneirs.
10. get your visa online at e-visa. so much easier and quicker than applying for a visa on arrival. http://www.mfaic.gov.kh/e-visa/vindex.aspx

feeling krabi

2009-01-20T03:09:00.000-08:00

krabi

wasn't feeling the ever-popular trek to phuket, koh samui nor any of the lamer-but-closer beaches to bkk. so to krabi it was. mostly, it's cheaper to stay here, pretty cheap to get here, and lots of options for getting around to the hotspots, like phi phi islands or any of the other million islands.

DO STUFF.
honestly, krabi town isn't really all that exciting. you need to get out. there are a million and one tours available and everyone's trying to sell you one. pick a place you like and ask around - you can always get a bargain. scratch that; you should always get a bargain. if you bargain thai style, you'll get further: keep it fun and humorous and you'll always get a better deal if you can make a friend. (our phi phi island day tour costs 1800B/adult if you book online, but after bargaining with our hotel, we got 1000B/head. *self-congratulatory hand gesture*). and they always pick you up at your hotel, so no anxieties about additional transpo.

we ended up with koh phi phi tours. - they've got other boat and bus tours available in the area. we took the phi phi island tour. tell me this isn't beautiful.maya bay on phi phi le. beautiful cove.viking cave, where birds' nests are harvested. for what? for eating. ask a chinese person. we went snorkeling near here. i wish i had an underwater camera.bamboo island off phi phi. crystal clear waters, pure white sands.
webby: www.phiphitours.com
you can book online, but you'll be charged 1800B/adult. if you happen to acquire a great deal with koh phi phi tours, great - i give them a thumbs up; but again, ask around for tour deals for whatever company.

railay bay - though not an island, you can only get to railay beach via half-hour longtail boat ride (either from 150B krabi town pier or 90B aonang bay) because of the rocky, mountainous terrain. the pics don't do it justice - the water is glass-clear.known for its rock climbing, railay draws a younger crowd. there are 3 beaches on this peninsular land mass. east is ugly and dirty (and therefore used mainly for transportation), phra nang cave beach which has beautiful rock climbing and tall cliff faces guarding the beach, and west which hosts most of the accomodations. watch out for the mini undetectable jellyfish that can give you a nice smart. between east and phra nang beaches, you'll find a steep 200-300m climb (think 45+degrees) up to a view point and the lagoon. not for the faint of heart. we couldn't make it to the lagoon which required an additional steeper climb down and up a gorge. pity.

we also saw a tour to go to the tiger cave temple, hot springs, and waterfall. after finding out that we could rent a motorcycle for 250B/day through our hotel, we opted for the less-safe, free-scheduled, and 10-times-cheaper motorcycle rental. if you don't know how to ride a motorbike, yet - you can learn in 5 minutes.
here are our motorcycle escapades:
huay toh waterfall - 3 tiers with an option for a longer hiking trail into the khao phanom bencha national park (to the peak of the mountain).22km from krabi town, 100B entrance, 20B parking.

tiger cave temple (wat tam sua) - buddhist shrine built into a cave with many monks and nuns living in tiny shelters in the rock. for the fit and pious, there is an imprint of buddha's footprint located 1000+ steps up the mountain. also fyi, no tigers. there's just a rock formation that looks like a tiger paw.another sight they feature here: "big tree." i coudn't figure which one of the "big trees" was "the big tree." the coolest one was this one with the nun meditating in it. 16km from krabi town, free.

hot waterfall - think natural jacuzzi (unlike other hot springs which are boiling or sulfur-stinky). very, very nice. i could spend all day here. crystal clear water, strong jacuzzi-strength streams, natural rock formations that are various sized tubs, and a chilly river it flows into (so you can get the whole hot-cold alternations).~60 km from krabi town, 90B entrance, 5B parking.

emerald lagoon/pool - about 1km in from the entrance, you come upon a crystal clear, natural pool (almost exactly like a swimming pool) fed by mineral streams, which have tinted the rocks a slight blue-green hue. room temp, very refreshing. again, i could stay here all day. if you come late afternoon, there are much less people and the surrounding forest shades the pool. we ran out of time and couldn't make it to their less popular (superstition) blue pool.~60 km from krabi town (only several km from the hot waterfall), a hefty 200B entrance (yikes! if you can pass for thai, it's only 20B), 10B parking.

krabi town night markets - you want fruit, southern curries, the normal market fare? head over to the open market at thanon maharat soi 10.want street-side dinner off carts? head over to the night market at thanon khlongkha @ the longtail boat pier.
want to see where these places are? check out this google map.

getting there:
i like ease and domestic flights in thailand are relatively cheap. fly into the small krabi airport and you can take either a taxi (about 350+B) or a shuttle bus to your hotel (90B/person for krabi city, 150B/p for aonang)

lodging: baan andaman
i have to give a rec for baan andaman; thai-style, simple, free wi-fi, wide-screen tvs, and we found great tour/day activity deals from them. it's situated away from the center of the city, but definitely within walking distance to restaurants and markets (10 min to the pier). and it smells nice (fresh, like thai herbs). oh, and my favorite was that they left a little snack in our room every day.
(i went through agoda.com, and got a pretty good price. i've used agoda a couple of times and have been really satisfied with their service.)

tex mex patriate

2008-12-25T20:27:00.000-08:00

i've yet to meet a mexican in bangkok, unfortunately. te extraño. so the only mexican food this former-LA resident will get will have to be of the tex-mex kind.

i've got three bangkok mexican restaurants for you all in one stuffed-burrito-post.
disclaimer: i've yet to go to patty's fiesta in silom (though, the logo of the thai "patty" in a sombrero isn't exactly something that screams authentic mexican) or senor pico in the rembrandt hotel. i'll add it to the ratings once i do.

coyote
this one's my preferred mexican joint so far. chic, vivacious, southwestern flair with a satisfyingly familiar menu with enough hip, creative twists on tex-mex. solid guacamole, tortilla soup, nachos, fajitas and the like. with a dynamic weekly menu, i deliberated between the mesquite pepper-grilled prime rib with jalapeno cornbread and the pan-fried snapper. it's hard to pass up beef in thailand and i devoured the tender, fatty, sizzling indulgence. no chance of leftovers. if you're a hot-sauce connosieur, over 50 sauces are on hand, including a couple coyote-made sauces. here are their artfully presented tacos.
spiritually, coyote has 75+ inventive margaritas made any way you like it. two tipsy thumbs up for the amaretto and the georgia margaritas.
aftersweets-wise, skip the peach & pecan chimichanga with raspberry coulis and vanilla ice cream. its tantalizing description overshoots its follow-through.bonus: changing lunch specials at a fixed price. hey, same food for less - me gusta. normally, entrees average around 300-400B.
extra bonus: happy hour weekdays 3-7pm; sat 11-7. buy 1 get 1 free margaritas (any kind).
extra extra bonus: ladies' nights. ladies drink margaritas free on wed and sat @ silom and thurs free @ sukhumvit location. i thank god for making me a lady.

coyote
2 locations @ soi convent in silom and sukhumvit
webby: www.coyoteonconvent.com

charley brown's
this mexican place is for the good ol' boys. no-frills, no-pretense tex-mex food in a no-hassle ambience. you want tacos? you get tacos. you want fajitas? you get fajitas. you want old license plates tacked to the wall like americans like to tack up? you get license plates. it's exactly the same as in any tex-mex restaurant in the US with no surprises. fresh, hearty, confident tex-mex entrees and punchy drinks. and sometimes that's all i want. thoughtful, health-conscious options available, too. how considerate.
save room for dessert, though, their liquour-flavored ice creams beckon with their come-hither flavors.

bonus: ladies' night tuesday night with half-off margaritas and sangria.
beware, this place is often disappointingly closed on mondays. why do you discriminate against mondays, charley?

charley brown's
1/23 sukhumvit 11
webby: www.charleybrowns.asia/home.html

sunrise tacos
sometimes you think, "today, i want mexican fast food." sunrise tacos is the closest (read: only) fast-ish mexican food you'll find in bangkok. imagine a brighter lit, thai-ish, milder version of chipotle. decent mexican tacos and burritos that don't aspire to be anything other than somebody trying to make mexican food out of thai ingredients. you could make it yourself, but hey, isn't that the purpose of fast food - getting someone else to make cheap food for you more conveniently?
also the cheapest of the three establishments, an entree is around 200B.

sunrise tacos
3 locations at sukhumvit, btw soi 12 and 14; emporium; and siam paragon.
webby: www.sunrisetacos.com

great grand daddy

2008-11-13T18:27:00.000-08:00

grand palace & temple of the emerald buddha

here comes the requisite grand palace post. since the grand palace is on almost everyone's tourist check-off list, here are my 2 cents (or 2 salung).

grand palace. we have nothing of this scale in the west. for some reason, it's more grand from a distance than up close, but it's beautiful and stunning nonetheless. if you want to know more of the history of the grand palace, here's a little history article .there are several buildings that make up the campus, the most notable being the temple of the emerald buddha (wat pra kaew) and the grand palace hall (chakri maha prasat). it demonstrates so much of thai culture and mentality in the layout and architecture. for one, this former political center has a temple as one of its main features, pointing to thais' nationalist buddhism. also interesting is the grand palace hall, built in european style, illustrating thailand's history of initiating diplomacy with the west and subsequently avoiding western imperialism. i suggest getting either a guidebook or hiring a guide there (perhaps a couple hundred baht, you can bargain) - it makes it so much more interesting. unlike historic sites in the west, the grand palace doesn't have too much in the way of informational and educational signs. the walls of some of the buildings are beautifully decorated murals of thailand's history and buddha's life(s). be prepared for intricate detail and lots of gooooold.

if you're a foreigner, the entrance fee costs you 300B, but also gets you into the vimanmek royal teakwood mansion (formerly dusit palace) the same day. free if you're thai.
appropriate dress: if you're skanky (or wearing something sleeveless or above the knee), you'll have to borrow (with cash deposit) some of their clothing to wear over your daisy dukes.
hours: 8:30-3:30
*watch out for scammers telling you it's closed and trying to take you to some other sites.

hummus is yummus

2008-10-15T19:55:00.000-07:00

beirut restaurant

a lover of mediterranean food of all incarnations, i particularly love the lebanese palette. beirut has become my favorite middle eastern restaurant in bangkok. it's fresh, it's crisp, it's subtle in its flavors, it's filling.

the great thing about beirut is that it has sets as well as their a la carte menu, allowing 3, 4, 6, or 8 dishes with pita for a reasonable price. a set of 4 runs for about 480B. pull together your set-of-choice with almost anything on the menu.
high recommendations on almost everything: hummus, tabouleh, beef kibbeh, shawarma all excellent. special props to their chicken zaatar, fried eggplant appetizer and falafel. even with a liberal use of olive oil, nothing felt heavy.

always a fan of complimentary munchies: pickles, fresh raw vegetables and a trinity of sauces are served as mezza to prep your salivary glands. the garlic sauce is powerful but delicious - exercise responsibility. along with the light, citrusy herb sauce and yogurt sauce, i slapped these three condiments on everything.

they've got a great beverage selection, offering punchy spicy turkish coffee (60B) , fresh fruit juices and shakes around 120B, teas and yogurt drinks.
as for service, they exercise pretty stringent gender roles, having female servers serve women and only men take orders from male customers.**a side anecdote: when i first walked by beirut, i saw what i thought was a mannequin in full burqa with only eyes showing placed by the entrance. i nearly soiled myself when the mannequin started talking on her cell phone. don't ask me why i assumed there was a mannequin in burqa in front of a restaurant.

beirut restaurant.
basement of the ploenchit center (sukhumvit 2). between nana and ploenchit bts stations.
location at silom: bottom level of j-city (silom 64)

sensory stimulation

2008-08-12T19:59:00.000-07:00

true urbanpark

the true coffee shops are almost as ubiquitous here in bangkok as the starbucks branches. whereas starbucks makes a point to give you the same experience in every starbucks joint, regardless of the country or place, true coffee has a lot more variety and design in their shops. the true coffee in thonglor is nothing like the true coffee in siam square is nothing like the true coffee in the mall bangkapi...
the one in siam paragon is definitely a stand-out. you have to at least check it out and give it a good walk-through. true urban park's forward-thinking prototype for a coffee shop, music shop, and book store is a feast for the senses. plug your ipod into the table and listen from within a plastic head-pod-thingy, buy audio electronics and accessories, browse the web, sip a peppermint patty latte, and peruse through some shelves of books.in case that's not enough stimulus, buy some fresh flowers, gnosh on a sandwich, stare at the giant flippy wall as it switches, or watch thailand's big brother version of american idol projected on a giant wall screen.

true urban park, siam paragon, 3rd floor.
10am-10pm. true wi-fi available.

i now understand how kobe cattle feel

2008-08-06T14:00:00.000-07:00

bangkok marriott resort & spa

since i'm officially a bangkok resident, there aren't many opportunities to stay in hotels. well, that, and i don't have enough money to hotel hop. a friend recently came to visit and invited me to come join her vacation-o-luxury. i just have to say:
I LOVE THE BANGKOK MARRIOTT RESORT & SPA

i've visited (but not stayed at) other top hotels in bangkok, of which the best are along the chao praya river, but this one, in my opinion is the one i recommend to anyone looking to be treated like royalty. turn down service, broadband internet, fresh fruit, featherbeds, robes and slippers add those nice touches to your stay in the room, but it's the hotel grounds that keep you from wanting to ever leave again.

i believe i've figured out the technique to transform my body into lazy, tender kobe meat:

step 1: consume large amounts of delicious, decadent food.
the three i tried were the following (in order of enjoyment):
trader vic's in the US is mediocre, unfortunately, skewing my expectations to be low. however, despite the second-rate name, is a fantastic pacific rim fusion restaurant. everything we ordered was matched beautifully, blending flavors well and using the most quality ingredients. if i didn't feel bad for my friend who was paying, i would have ordered the wagyu. highlights: tuna sesame encrusted diakon radish with wasabi mayo topped by caviar; avacado gazpacho with green apple and watercress; lamb yakitori with eggplant and mushrooms, sided by a rich pumpkin puree (900B); and crispy red duck and foie gras, with bok choy and apple taro cake (800B). you're drooling, aren't you? trust me, if your wallet's thick, you want to eat here.

riverside terrace which was an outdoor buffet on the patio overlooking the chao phraya river. lots of goodies including teppanyaki, crepes, mongolian bbq, italian pastas and pizza to order, grill, indian, oyster/shellfish bar, and an extensive dessert spread. thai boxing and traditional thai performance (dancing/acting) throughout the evening. priced at 1100B/person + 10% service, buffet dinner 6-10:30

numero uno cafe is a nice little chocolate shop and deli/bakery with an alluring display of pastries and sweets. a la carte menu with pastries, deli sandwiches and lunch fare, fondues, and chocolates. roughly 160-510B for breakfast, lunch or dinner. i got to try both their chocolate afternoon tea buffet as well as their after-dinner cheese/chocolate and cognac buffet (both 500B). have i ever told you i have problems with self-control? though they're meant to be post-meal treats, they became my meals. beware, my brothers and sisters with poor self-control, these are small, but very calorific buffets. cherry chocolate cake. nice presentation, eh?

in addition to these restaurants, they also have these spots that i didn't try:
benihana - japanese grill, teppanyaki okonomi (370-4900B). a little grill show as your meal's cooked.
the market - breakfast buffet. a la carte 95-510B. lunch/dinner 699 buffet. noodles, sushi, etc. 170-980
rice mill - chinese, dim sum 180-3000B

and for bars:
elephant bar - tapas, fusion bar food 175-295B
longtail bar - riverside, live music "kim" 170-980B bbq grill food - light fare
loy nam - pool bar, snacks and salads 180-300B

step 2: get a massage.
nothing says "pampered" like a great massage. the mandara spa (also available in room or poolside) offers steams 950, wraps 3-4k, scrubs 2-3k, massages 2250-5520, poultices 3200, facials 2700-5520, baths 950, steams 950, men's stuff 4k-9500. i got a deep tissue massage

step 3: be sedentary and expend as little physical energy as possible.
though the marriott resort has a fitness center with tennis and fitness classes, you should avoid them if you hope to keep your body marbled with fat. the thai cooking classes may be ok, though, if you maintain a very slow pace and try not to move too much while cooking. the pool is the perfect place to work on your golden tan while using little-to-no energy.

but if you decide to veer off the course of kobe cultivation, this place also has:
- manohra cruise - old rice barges converted into personal cruise ships. dinners or overnight cruise to ayutthaya.
- it's own malls and shopping.
- the hotel grounds are also beautiful decorated with lush tropical gardens.

bangkok marriott resort & spa. 257 charoen nakhon @ krungthep bridge. 02-476-0021
room rates between 5,400B-42,000B (if you're a guest, you receive coupons to all the restaurants)
webby: http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/bkkth-bangkok-marriott-resort-and-spa/

these legs aren't just for show.

2008-07-28T19:56:00.000-07:00

northeast chiang mai

i recently had the chance to retreat up to chiang mai and i LOVED IT. next time, i'm leaving more time to explore. i think i finally found out what these legs are for; needless to say, i trekked a lot.

first things first: lodging. i should mention that the purpose of going up to chiang mai was to retreat and pray, so we found a great retreat center that i would recommend to anyone looking to pray and practice silence/solitude.
seven fountains spirituality center on hway kaew rd, near chiang mai university is a jesuit center specifically for contemplative retreats. it's simple, affordable, and has thought of everything. rooms are 500B or 600B (AC) per night (they only have single rooms), includes all meals (simple but good and satisfying), there's free laundry service available, library, labyrinth, coffee/tea/ovaltine available all over the grounds, and simple well-kept gardens and landscaping. the only thing they don't have that you should not forget is mosquito repellent.
strict silence observed. daily mass in english at 6 for retreatants, mass in thai twice daily. spiritual direction available.
the simplicity and serenity of the center is super conducive to a slower paced life and i felt very cared for. love jesuits.
seven fountains spirituality center @ 97 hway kaew rd, 50300
tel: 053 211076, 053 892545; web: htty://7fountains.wordpress.com; email: jesuits@cmnet.co.th
proximity to other places of interests is another plus...keep reading.

doi suthep-pui national park
just a little walk up hway kaew road, you reach the chiang mai zoo where you can catch a songtaew up the doi suthep mountain for 40B. if you want to use those things-they-call-legs, walk past the songtaews, and take a left at the fork in the road to reach the hway kaew waterfall, which is free! hway kaew waterfall is a series of waterfall starting at the entrance and other spots to stop about .5-2km up the mountain, including wang bua ban pond (named after a woman who committed suicide over her lover who moved to bangkok) and pha ngerb which is a rolling waterfall over large boulder and rock formations. and a beautiful view over chiang mai at an overlook on the path. up the road another 3km, you'll reach the entrance to mon tha than waterfall. it's another 3km into the actual waterfall, so if you walk, expect a lengthy hike.

babylon italian restaurant
this is where "thai godfather" should be filmed. very dimly lit, a little dingy, and homey yet with a tiny creep-factor. this place has to be mafia because of how good the food is. their homemade pasta is fantastic, their sauces so comforting and spot-on with flavor, and they don't skimp on the size or ingredients. standouts were the spinach malfatti (gnocchi) in marinara (140B), extra-wide fettucini which we had with their osso bucco (220), and their macaroni siliciliana (180) with eggplant, piquant meatballs, mushroom, and basil in marinara. wait, let me wipe me drool off my keyboard.
i highly recommend anything with their robust tomato sauce and pastas made on-site. simply fantastic.desserts were decent, but a little amiss. all their ice creams (50) taste a little goaty (i guess thai cows produce goaty milk) and on the icier side of the spectrum. blackprune ice cream was very icy and so pruny, that once it was topped with prune sauce, it was just as if we were eating a frozen prune. you'd be better off heading down to milk garden after the meal.
babylon restaurant, 100/63 hway kaew rd.

milk garden (suan nom)
milk garden, also on hway kaew rd., in between seven fountains and babylon restaurant, is a hip, eclectic little cafe packed with students.
come for toast, smoothie, or yogurt. because it's right down the street from a dairy, it has wonderful milk offerings. the yogurt (35B) was a delicious, refreshing bowl of yogurt mixed with crushed ice with whatever fresh fruit you want.
in addition to their menu, milk garden also sells handmade mugs, dolls, bracelets, and other crafty items. think: cool DIY crafts, not your grandma's embroidery crafts. this whole place feels creative and trendy, but not without its requisite thai cuteness. instead of having table numbers, you pick out a stuffed doll so your server can identify your table.

happy hut
honorable mention of the trip: coconut based ice cream from happy hut. homemade by a friend of the owner, the ice cream (20B) comes in a smattering of intriguing flavors: black sesame, black sticky rice pudding, pomegranate, thai ice tea,etc.). very tasty, and since it's coconut based, lacks the heavy coated aftermath. bunch of coffee drinks, too.
happy hut, corner of nimmanahaeminda soi 3

it's all about how you present yourself

2008-07-28T14:00:00.000-07:00

vanilla cafe

stepping into the vanilla compound, i mean, courtyard, is walking into a fantastical hidden alcove. forget feeling like you're in bangkok. it's no surprise that there's japanese behind this place; they've mastered aesthetics.
hedging the meticulously manicured lawn and courtyard, we've got the trifecta: sauce bookstore on the left, vanilla cafe in the back, and royal vanilla restaurant on the right.

sauce's two levels of books specially feature cookbooks to provoke your salivary glands to pavlovian activity. i'm sure it's not accidental. especially for someone like me, who is the easiest sell when it comes to advertisements appealing to carnal appetite. fear not, you're close to vanilla's two restaurants, conveniently planted adjacent to the book store. aside from the cookbooks and japanese titles, sauce also has a nice stock of trendy-yet-simple tote bags, t-shirts, and gifts.vanilla cafe in the center has the feel of your father's office, if your father was into retro design and aesthetically anal in his collection of vintage action figures and clocks. in the area of refreshments, vanilla's selection is pretty wide - hitting a large japanese selection and dim sum in addition to their pastries and coffees and sandwiches. beautiful, but lacking in taste: macadamia latte had no macadamia flavor at all (i honestly thought they had just given me a regular latte) and their peanut butter brownie (40) was too sugary and not chocolatey or peanutty enough. i did really enjoy their strawberry daifuku (35B), though (fresh strawberry wrapped in red bean paste and delicately held in a soft mochi cover) and their lime frost.
also, one point off my experience of vanilla cafe: i had my notebook out and was taking notes on their menu and a waiter came to scold me and yanked the menu away. i asked for a reason and was refused the courtesy. boo.vanilla cafe, sauce bookstore, royal vanilla. 53 ekkamai (sukhumvit 63) soi 12
coffees 60-110B, smoothies 130-150B,

in the quest of a good sandwich...

2008-07-28T01:58:00.000-07:00

landmark plaza: garden court/greenhouse/the terrace

i miss my nebbishy delis of the east coast. pangs of longing for thick, punchy pastrami and murturing matzo ball soup hit every so often. get me to a restaurant that serves a decent sandwich!
which leaves me asking: what about bangkok is not attractive to our judaic brothers and sisters? come and bring us food! (perhaps its the oh-so-not-kosher nature of thai food)

landmark plaza's selection of mention-worthy sandwiches fills a deli-shaped hole in my heart.

i'd heard that their reuben would make a new york deli blush. well, it won't. it won't even make an LA deli blush. but, it will make an american sigh with satisfaction. the reuben came on dark rye, under a generous layer of melted swiss and sauerkraut. it was delicious. well done, landmark.
the grilled chicken sandwich with bacon and pesto spread on focaccia roll was also delightful.
extra points for giving us unexpectedly free coleslaw when we asked for it as an extra side. all three landmark incarnations (garden court/greenhouse/the terrace) serve the same menu, so have your ambience your way: out on the patio, in a more traditional restaurant, or in the courtyard under palm trees. if you're not feeling into sandwiches, they also serve congee, dimsum, noodles, and salads.

landmark plaza: garden court/greenhouse/the terrace
138 sukhumvit (between 4 & 8). closest BTS @ Nana
165B for half sandwich and 240B for a full. comes with fries, curly fries, or wedges. say yes to curly!
free wifi in landmark plaza.

cheesecake factory: bangkok style

2008-07-03T09:45:00.000-07:00

coffee beans by daoone thing i'm realizing about bangkok is that the names of restaurants don't always give a proper expectation of what the restaurant will be like. you name a place coffee beans by dao and you think "coffee shop." well, get used to being wrong. coffee beans by dao is just a restaurant with good desserts. coffee here is more of an idea and don't expect to lounge in plush seating all day.

entrees are decent, though nothing special; a mix of thai, chinese and a little western accent at times. save yourself some baht and eat dinner from a street stand before you come. especially since they tack on an extra 17% service fee to your bill.

the real standout is their desserts. an at-capacity glass case full of western-style cakes, cheesecakes, and pastries, you have to spend a drooly few minutes ogling the sweets. we chose 5 items: mango cheesecake, caramel cheesecake, new york cheesecake, and carrot cake. carrot cake wins out by far - fresh, aromatic, made with thick carrot shreds and iced with a tangy, non-sugary cream cheese frosting. all their cheese cakes were good; made with thick, crunchy, buttery crusts and on the lighter/creamier side of cheesecakes (don't expect your standard cardiac-arrest-via dairy new york cheesecake). all good, with my favorite cheesecake being the caramel (with glazed walnuts). i do have a penchant for nuts, though. take it as you will.

my best advice: come ogle the desserts and buy some slices to go.
coffee beans by dao. 47 ekkamai soi 12 (ekkamai is sukhumvit 63).
other locations at: central world, 20/12-15 ruamrudee (ploenchit)
appetizers/salads 90-335B, mains 140-650B (though generally around 200), desserts around 100-200B, ogling free.
don't forget to add 17% service charge.

Suvarnabhumi Sky Loft

2008-06-20T03:24:00.000-07:00

Checking into our domestic flight with AirAsia, an orange sign with cool scratchity white font loomed overhead: "Sky Loft" With the promise of food and dessert, and with two hours until our flight, we took the escalator up one floor to check it out. Inside was a classy foodcourt of sorts, a sleek modern design, offering Western fusion food. We circled the court in awe of the massive sandwiches, fresh salads, beautiful-looking desserts displayed around us, and we decided to buy a food card, even though, in my case, I'd eaten lunch about 40 minutes before.

I got a Caesar salad, which was very fresh. The dressings were displayed so 1) I got to choose my own amount, saving me from the constantly overdressed state of caesar and 2) I got to mix it up a little: I added a garlic vinegarette which was delicious.

Then, I wanted to get a glass of wine. I walked over to the drinks bar, where they were advertising 6 types of wine by the glass- 3 reds, 3 whites, one of each from France, Australia, and Chile. The only bottle they had open was the Australian white, which was way too sweet. They wouldn't open the other bottles for me to taste. In this decision they lost: One point for customer service, and 200 baht I would have paid for a glass of dry wine.

Michelle got an apricot tart, which was okay. Meh. Nothing to write home about. The crust was kinda dry, it was so sweet I thought they used dried apricots until Michelle corrected me that that's what happens to apricots when you bake them. The desserts lady was slightly rude to Michelle as well, which cost another customer service point.
>
But this is why I will never return to the Sky Loft:

After whetting my palette with garlic vinegarette, being denied my glass of vino, and scarfing down a dry-crusted tart, I was thirsty, so I went back to the drinks bar and asked for a bottle of water, handing them my food card. It wasn't until I was walking back, unscrewing the cap, and folding up the receipt until I looked down and saw this:

SEVENTY BAHT.

Yes, friends, seventy baht for a plain old bottle of 7 baht water. I choked. I sat down. I hyperventilated. I fanned myself. The moment passed, but still whenever I think of these words "Sky Loft" I cringe, thinking of 63 baht I could have saved. Thinking of the wine I could have had. And wondering if the garlicky Caesar was really worth the heartache?

spaghetti godfarther

2008-06-19T00:18:00.000-07:00

farm fresh vegetable

generally, italian in bangkok means big baht. fortunately, the thai are particularly entrepreneurial and have a knack for reproduction; just walk through any night/street market and you'll find every kind of fendi, vuitton, or prada.

farm fresh vegetable is no different in appearance or thai cuisine than any other run-of-the-mill storefront restaurant in bangkok, except for its decent italian menu. nothing to call home about, but not bad if you're in the pridi area and looking for some italian food that you'd rather not cook yourself.their menu's pretty good, including a dish called "spaghetti godfarther" which essentially is chicken parm. pesto was the best sauce in my opinion, packing punch; marinara is on the sweeter end, and the alfredo is good by alfredo standards (though, you should ask someone else, since i'm not the biggest fan of alfredo), squid ink fettucine is nice.
a couple 'honorable mention' menu items are boar meat, curry spaghetti, fettucine panang, and thai esan style tagliatele. unfortunately, didn't get to try to the boar meat. boo.

round out your bill with some thai favorites (their tom kha is particularly creamy and aroy) and one of their many fish dishes and you'll leave satisfied with a wallet with some baht left in it.

farm fresh vegetable. 45 pridi 2 (sukhumvit 71)
4:30p-1am, closed sundays.
dishes ranging 50-220B

relax. you're in koh chang

2008-05-08T00:14:00.001-07:00

koh chang
this is just to try to lure you to go to koh chang. oh, what great fun!

getting to koh chang from bangkok: you have to get out of bangkok sometimes. fortunately, it's not hard to find beautiful places in thailand. koh chang is easy to get to: via air (fly into "trat"), van (pickup at khao san rd.), private car (you're on your own with that), or AC bus (oh so many options).

we took a 5-hr bus ride to koh chang from bangkok's ekkamai station (473B roundtrip), which i recommend. buses also pick up at suvarnabhumi airport, mochit (northern bus terminal). try to take a bus to go to laem ngob or the center point pier and you won't have to pay for a taxi/songtaew like if you got off at trat.
you have to hop on a ferry out one of 3 piers, which runs every hour and costs 30B for 40-min ride to the island of koh chang. here's a helpful webby for the all transpo options possible to get to koh chang. i love the internet.

my recs for fun things:
khlong plu waterfall: about a 1 km hike in from the entrance, you reach a crispy, chilly waterfall with 2 swimmable pools. you definitely want to jump in the water after you hike up to the falls. great 2-3 hour excursion. if you're into hiking, you can take a 10km (ish) trail from khlong plu waterfall to tharn mayom waterfall.

baan chang offers elephant rides, trekking through the forest or along the river (you can bathe the elephants). 1 hr is 500B, 2 hrs is 900B. you don't trek that far, but they give you a good chunk of time either riding on the bench on the back of the elephant or riding on its neck. how often do you get to ride on an elephant? baan chang seems to try to take good care of the elephants, too, which is always a bonus. (on Klong Prao Rd. T: 084-863-8185, 081-761-1554)

unless you have a tried and true iron stomach, do not go on a day-long boat trip. every time i have been on one of these, someone has always thrown up and multiple people get seasick. if you can get a boat just to take you to one to three stops and hang out for a long time at an island, i think it's the best way to go. renting a speedboat for a full day runs around 7000-9000B. My recs are for koh nok, koh mak, and koh thong lang. koh nok is a tiny little island that has great reefs for snorkeling.
koh mak has the most beautiful white sand and crystal-clear water. and i swear it smells like fresh laundry and can feel incredibly serene (if there aren't other groups of people coming, too). stay as long as you possibly can.
koh thong lang has amazing coral and is packed with sea life. an island slightly larger than koh nok, it offers more fish and sea stuffs to snorkel through than koh nok, though it's also further from the main island of koh chang.

accommodations:
it's easy to find lodging in koh chang smack on the beach for all budgets. your best bet is to internet search for hotel deals. string of hotels along klong prao beach and white sand beach. backpacker hotspot at lonely beach.
we found a half-price deal for koh chang paradise resort and spa on the klong prao beach which has cute little bungalows at different ranges (their highest level has individual pools and are constructed in a blend of traditional thai and american southwest styles. oh, if i had money...

sometimes i like being a lady

2008-05-07T23:53:00.000-07:00

witch's tavern

hands down, the best thing about the witch's tavern is their wednesday lady's night. it makes me proud to have two glorious X chromosomes to partake in opportunities like this (i.e. free booze). every wednesday 5pm-9pm, all ladies drink free from a selected menu (chang beer & well drinks). it is oh-so-satisfying to receive your bill at the end of the night with a long list of zeros. i like the look of this place: a distinctly southern, 2-story pale yellow mansion with bar seats, tables, booths, and couches - sit wherever your butt desires. a great bangkok bar/pub with an drool-inspiring expansive menu (tapas to burgers to chinese to thai) but will take a formidable chunk out of your wallet and sadly not that good. judging from the menu, it really seems like their food would be good, but don't expect much.
their spanish tapas (240B) were mundane and bland comprising chorizo, a few olives, garlic mussels, and toast. eddie's burger (290B) was decent: hearty portion, on a good homemade bun, but too salty and over-seasoned and dry. margherita pizza (220B) was just a normal thin-crust cheese pizza with dried basil sprinkled on top. and do not be tempted by the apple&blackberry crumble (170B) which was just warmed-up apple chunks and a couple blackberries mixed with a bland vanilla pudding and handful of semi-sweet crumbs. food = disappointing.

one thing that makes witch's tavern stand out among bangkok bars is its extensive cocktail menu with old faves and new twists. as tasty and as interesting as they sound, i have yet to try such an expensive drinky.

the bar island floats in the middle of the large 2 story room with seating surrounding. not great ambience for having conversations (it's pretty loud), but nice to chill and listen to the jazz band. outdoor seating available (i.e. get your own drink at the bar and drink it outside).

oh and all you bingo-lovers: free bingo on wednesday nights. one round at 11pm, jackpot anywhere between 3000B-15,000B.
happy hour 5-8pm: buy one local beer, get one free.

witch's tavern. thonglor btw soi 8 & 10. hours 11am-1am.
tapas 140-280B, farang mains 240-390B, thai mains 140B, sushi/sashimi 100-350B, desserts 120-180B
beers & cocktails 90-300B.
webby: www.witch-tavern.com

you'd better stretch beforehand

2008-05-07T22:53:00.000-07:00

oishi buffet

can you handle the intensity of a 1 hr 45 min buffet? this type of gastronomic challenge requires an iron will, a sharp mind, and lightning agility to sprint your way through mountains of food. i was seriously running.

oishi buffet is the inspiration for all japanese buffet restaurants in bangkok and it's easy to see why. they've got sushi, shashimi, salads (bar and premade), shabu shabu/hot pot, grill & mongolian bbq to order, fish and stir-fries made to order, soups, gyoza, tempura, duck, hand rolls, fruit, shaved ice, frozen yogurt (including green tea!), cakes and pastries. served with a range of beverages including teas, coffees, sodas or for a little extra: beer, other bottled soft drinks. unfortunately for me, i'm chinese, and have the "getting your money's worth" gene, which forces me to try everything and eat as much as possible. i was hurting afterward; though, a good kind of hurt.

the big standout in my opinion is their mongolian bbq grill (made to order) with their korean-seasoned meat and a pretty large spread of sushi rolls. everything else is good, but pretty average. it's just awesome because you get SO MUCH OF IT.

don't get overzealous, though, it's "all you can eat but pay for what you don't" meaning that if you have too much leftover, you're paying for it. mind what time you go, too, since 5-9p is the most expensive rounding out to 499B (and they add on a 17% service and tax charge). the cheapest time is from 2:30-4:30p at 399B.

oishi buffet. thonglor soi 10. (other outlets at phaholyothin soi 19 and siam discovery 2nd floor)
hours 11a-10p. 499B (+17% service/tax) per person. 02-714-8760

webby: http://www.oishigroup.com/brand_oishi_brand_eng.html

sweet oasis

2008-05-07T22:32:00.000-07:00

ann's sweet

parched. so parched. must. find. air. conditioning...preferably with lattes.
finding an aircon cafe in the banglumpu/kao san area was a little harder than i expected. poo on those hippies and their preference for balmy bungalow cafes.

ann's sweet was such a nice, climate-controlled little bakery and coffee shop to duck into before the rained poured. situated at the bend between phra athit and phra sumen, across the street from santichaiprakan park (prasumen fort), this bakery has really great pastries. because of its tiny size (about 4 square tables), i asked where the pastries came from and was surprised to find that the owner and namesake of the shop bakes them all herself in the back. she's actually still a culinary student and is making desserts as she learns them.
i was very impressed with her cute, mini strawberry cheesecakes (120B) with a strawberry cheesecake layer (as opposed to a strawberry topping), which were deliciously velvety and rich, and pleased to find a little pineapple blended into it. i like that she twists an original just a tad. paired with a full-bodied lavazza latte (60B), i was set to wait out the downpour.
the only downside is that the seating isn't exactly what i would call "comfortable." blocky, wood furniture with tables that have a shelf underneath the glass top, holding a lot of fun and entertaining magazines, but also making about 3 inches of space between the chair and table for your legs. don't expect them to fit. they won't.

her other pastries include a triple chocolate mousse (120B), brownies (25B), and trifles (80B) among other things. full lavazza coffee menu and an extensive selection of teas.
don't feel like pastries? have some of their iberry ice creams.

ann's sweet. thanon phra athit, across from santichaiprakan park (fort phrasumen), banglumpu.
hours 5am-8pm (8:30p on weekends). 06-889 1383

books a la cosmopolitan

2008-04-24T23:32:00.000-07:00

skoob bookstore

tucked on the second floor of 'penny's balcony' stripmall on thonglor, skoob packs its small space with an impressive amount of new and used english & japanese books. unfortunately, i can't comment on the japanese literature available, but the english selection has a fair number of fiction and non-fiction, popular and slightly more obscure titles. though, if you're looking for something specific, it may be more difficult to find. and as a plus, all the used books i looked at were in good-as-new condition.
there's a jazz-flavored cd corner. it literally is a corner, but i was actually surprised with what albums they had - a mix of world, folk, indie, experimental. and they've got some funky, thai-cut tote bags for sale that are a livelihood project for rural areas.

and for all you caffeine-addicts, stay all day if you like: lavazza coffee & cookies available. seating sparse, though.
skoob. thonglor soi 16 (2nd fl. of "penny's balcony")

webby: www.skoob-bkk.com (it's a great ordering site for such a small shop)

book smart books mart bookmark

2008-04-24T23:19:00.000-07:00

bookmark

a trendy 2-story independent bookstore in thonglor (in "the 3rd place"). one of the most interesting features is the "tribute" to the owner painted on the 2nd floor. i think i'm much more used to bookstores with anonymous, nerdy, wallflower-type owners.
the 1st floor is mainly thai books the owner has chosen, covering a wide range of interests. the 2nd floor stocks books and mags that are more geared to the creative/design reader (art, architecture, design, fashion, etc.); very pretty and engrossing.

it's got good ambience: it's quiet, it's well-lit, there's several choices for seating, and nice views out onto the patio garden. plus, the location in "the 3rd place" is super convenient with coffee shops, internet, cozy seating. i can be there all day in this literary oasis. bookmark. thonglor soi 10 (on the 1st floor of "the third place" complex). hours 10am-9pm.

big beefy american

2008-04-22T00:37:00.000-07:00

the garage bar and grill

ah, the elusive american beef burger in bangkok. can't all restaurants just make a decent, all-beef, easy-on-the-mayo, grilled burger?
from its burger aptitude, we definitely knew the garage was a restaurant owned by someone american, or at least someone very proficient in american culture. i mean, we were asked how well we wanted it cooked. the garage has a wide smattering of good-sized beef, veggie, and other meat burgers that come with steak fries and coleslaw (~180+B). my "down under aussie burger" came with a fried egg and beets - i'm such a sucker for eggs and beets. in addition, they've got other american fare (pastas, pizzas, corndogs, etc.) and lunch specials for 99B.

the decor of the garage must be mentioned. old car seats line the wall, hand-painted denim jackets with celebrity profiles, english mags and books piled on coffee tables, and a shady balcony patio.
poo boonthanakit, the brains behind the restaurant, moved to ny as a kid, struggled as an artist there (he paints the denim jackets himself - he'll gladly show you his portfolio, too), moved back to bangkok after 21 years, and started the garage.

other fyi:
happy hour 3-7p. buy any 2 drinks and get 1 free. free popcorn and chips&salsa (no refills)
live music playing american covers. the garage bar and grill. 7th floor of central world plaza (original location at All Seasons Place Retail Center, 2nd fl. - near US embassy)
open daily 11a-10p; sat 12p-10p

webby: www.thegaragebkk.com

laborer's rejoice!

2008-04-16T08:55:00.002-07:00

บะหมี่ จับกัง (bami jap gang)

i love dives. love love love dives. the more difficult to find, the cheaper the cost, the dingier the place, the more i love it. i attribute this to my chinese dna. so the quest began when my teacher told me about the ultimate noodle dive in chinatown, bami jap gang. it literally translates to "laborer's egg noodles."located down a skinny, covered little soi in chinatown, this place is all about portion size and speed. the uber-mechanical employees churn out bowls and to-go packs (translate: wrapped in newspaper) of pork and egg noodles with apt speed. we didn't even have to order, we just got a bowl flung in front of us.the noodles are all about simplicity and sheer nutrition on-the-go: you get a heaping portion of egg noodles, roast pork, and green onions; extra greasy. season with the normal thai noodle seasonings they have on the table (chili peppers, vinegar, fish sauce, sugar) and you're done. get your day's worth of calories before you head off to your laborious job...or shopping.there is only one sign, and it's obviously one that was created in about a minute and a half on a word processor. basically all it says is the name of the place "bami jap gang" and the price. normal ("tamada") is 25B; special ("pi-set"), which just means bigger is 35B.

bami jap gang (laborer's noodles) in chinatown/yaowarat on Trok Charoen Chai Soi 2 about 50-100m. near Wat Mangkorn (a.k.a wat leng heng yee - the chinese name).

no way is there a webby.

coffee over the chao phraya

2008-04-01T01:05:00.000-07:00

vivi the coffee place

i love lounging on the chao phraya river in bangkok. give me a spot on the bank and come back for me in 9 hours.
vivi "the coffee place" is a cute little coffee shop situated directly on the chao phraya across from wat arun. indoor ac and outdoor patio make for the best of both personal-comfort worlds. sip a bubbly italian soda, rich chocolately drink, or your favorite incarnation of coffee and enjoy the river.
kiwi soda on the patio
vivi - the coffee place (next to aurum river house). 394/29 thanon maharat, between soi setthakan and chetuphon, historical rattanakosin (just south of Wat Po/Grand Palace).
hours 8a-8p. drinks and assorted pastries 50-120B.

NYT loved it. NPR loved it.

2008-04-01T01:03:00.000-07:00

chote chitr

even before i moved to bangkok, a friend told me about chote chitr which she had heard about on npr. and me, being the npr nerd that i am, hold npr standards above gold. is it weird that i consider jonathan gold as one of my favorite writers?

i got a tip from another friend who had visited this place that the woman who owns it speaks english fluently and has little patience. she was scolded for trying to ask and order in thai. tip: use your english. honestly, the woman is a little like the thai version of the soup nazi. she had little patience for me when i asked questions about the dishes and only repeated her scripted responses (obviously for farangs) with a sigh of annoyance. that's ok for me, though - i'm chinese and was raised on curt service.

so, with that, we put aside the extensive menu and ordered what she suggested: tom yum goong, banana flower salad, and mee krob with shrimp.tom yum goong with 3 massive, palm-sized prawns was on the sour and creamier end of the spectrum of this dish with a sweet tinge (which is a bit more unusual). i loved the tender bamboo shoots in this. i was hesitant about submitting to thai-soup-nazi about ordering this since it's so 'ordinary' here, but i was pleasantly surprised. on account of the mutant prawns, this dish was the priciest at 150B.

banana flower salad, also with shrimp and chicken. tangy and sweet without much chile spice. this was my fave. the mee krob (fried, crunchy noodles) with shrimp, fruits and nuts was pretty sweet, though not without a little sour tang, and had a fair amount of carmelized sugar drizzled over it.

all in all, it was a good eat and i can see why foreigners like it so much: 1. the woman speaks english, 2. the dishes aren't raging spicy hot, 3. everything's a little sweet (they use a lot of fresh fruits in their dishes, too), and 4. though it's without AC, it's a comfortable little place to sit and feel like you're discovering something off the beaten path (though now, the path is pretty beaten).chote chitr. 146 phraeng phuton (just of thanon tanao) in rattanakosin (south of democracy mon.)
dishes 30-150B

wait your turn, bub

2008-04-01T00:59:00.001-07:00

12 อร่อย ซาลาเปา (12 aroy salapao)

crowds around food always pique my curiosity. especially if they're waiting.
i just joined the line of chinese thai folks waiting around stacks of steamers at '12 aroy salapao.' and i ended up being the only one who didn't buy a batch. being chinese, i've had a few salapao buns (chinese: bao zi) in my lifetime and they're usually pretty run of the mill: airy white bread encasing a sweet or savory filling. good for on-the-go.
i tried a black sesame paste bun fresh out of the steamer. i have never had a fluffier, lighter bun with a just-sweet-enough black sesame paste. i had no idea salapao could be so much better than what i'd had before. no savoring possible. next time i'm getting one of each filling.

flavors: red bean, black sesame, cream, ground pork, and red pork (18B). taro and ba gway (20B).
12 aroy salapao (look for '12'), 53 thanon mahannop (at the corner of trok wat mahanop 1) , rattanakosin
18-20B per bun

ruby ruby ruby rubyyyyy (tribute to the kaiser chiefs)

2008-04-01T00:56:00.001-07:00

ทับทิมกรอบ (tup tim grob)

tup tim grob. literally translated they mean "crunchy rubies." ruby is also the word for pomegranates - see the resemblance to their seeds? i stinkin' love these little buggers, and the best i've had is from Lek (below, in red). what they are like little water chestnut mochis in shaved ice and coconut milk. super refreshing in scorching thailand with just the right mix of chewy and crispy. Lek specially smokes fragrance into her tup tim grob, making them particularly aromatic.

Lek has lots of other things you can have in shaved ice, but she's famous for her tup tim grob. She sells in conjunction with a boat-noodle soup stand (the kind made with cow's blood - it's actually good) so you can come for a complete meal for cheap. during the week, this place is always packed. Lek's little stand - "tup tim grob", pratunam boat pier (under the awning, past the tattoo shop)
15B a bowl. closed weekends.

how can they profit?

2008-04-01T00:53:00.000-07:00

รสเด็ด (rot det)

honestly, how do you make a profit when you charge the equivalent of $3 for all-you-can-eat?
the best part about this place is the gata, which is a coal-fired pan that has a raised grill in the center and a soup moat that holds whatever kind of soup you decide to make that collects all the meat juices that have run off the grill. take a moment to wipe the drool off your face.

this place has "shrimp" in its name so they have pretty large raw prawns, but they go quick, so keep alive. there's also raw beef, pork, seafoods, chicken, various processed meats (like fish cakes & hot dogs) for the grilling. not high quality meat, but very tasty. for brevity, i will only list some of the other non-grill items: grilled whole fish, pre-grilled pepper steak, raw veggies for the soup, pad thai, spring rolls, siu mai, squid salad, som tam, fried crab rangoon, chicken wings, coconut ice cream, fresh fruit, donuts, muffins, sticky rice and mango, shaved ice with thai sweets. oh yeah, 99B gets you all that and you can stay till they close if you like.
note: it's all outdoors. don't expect an 'A' health code rating.rot det shrimp gata (sign is in thai only). nawamin on the corner of soi 155. (also at sukhumvit 71)
99B per person, all you can eat. if you don't finish too much of what you get, you get charged 20B for every extra 0.1kg. don't load up on the questionable meats.
open from 4pm to midnight, you can stay the whole time if you like.

great american rib co.

2008-03-25T00:45:00.000-07:00

it tastes like america. it feels like a wannabe applebee's inside with a ton of factory-made college pennants, but the food is definitely the real deal (it is really good bbq for american standards), with some great german beers on tap. oh yeah, we can do it the american way...gluttony.
i highly recommend 'the feast' that serves about 4-5 people that has "butt-kicking chicken," a rack of ribs, pulled pork, pepper-pastrami pork tenderloin, baked beans, corn on the cob, coleslaw, curly fries, potato salad, and jalapeno (yes, actual jalapeno in thailand!) cornbread. ah yes, the american way of meat and carbs in american-sized portions (we 5 americans couldn't finish it all - there's a half feast available, too).
everything was delicious, but i liked the ribs best and thought the pastrami pork tenderloin was on the drier side. their smoking and marinating process makes all their meat super juicy and flavorful. of course we had starters and dessert and drinks, too. potato skins were a greasy, cheesy, tasty mess. bread pudding was rich and creamy. i now see why we have an obesity problem in the states.i got so excited about the food, i forgot to take a pic until halfway through. we jumped on this like velociraptors.

great american rib co.
2 locations: sukhumvit soi 36 and ram intra soi 57
starters and entrees 200+.

webby: http://www.greatrib.com/web/index.html

green acres is the place to be

2008-03-24T20:41:00.000-07:00

oliver: the chores!
zsa zsa (i can't remember her character's name): the stores!
oliver: fresh air!
zsa zsa: times sqvare!

sorry, zsa zsa, oliver wins on this one. green acres at suan luang rama IX are awesome! the heavyweight king 'suan luang' measuring in at a whopping 200 acres kicks your garden's ass. this place features:
an homage to his majesty, botanical gardens, rommaniya garden, the reservoir, the sanan rasdara, and a water garden. who knows what half those things mean, but it practically looks like having a ton of things to walk around and look at.
especially this year, since the king is getting up in years, the park has more special displays and flowers. it's easy to spend a whole day here. food vendors and some craft stands are around, too (of course, would it be thai without them?) i wish we weren't blocking the beautiful scenery. poo.
merit tent which patrons can visit and earn some extra-leisurely merit.gourd tunnel. what else can you say about it?

suan luang rama IX (king's park). sukhumvit 103 (udomsuk) nongbon pravej bangkok 10260
hours 6a-6p; entrance fee 15B
you can get there cheap via songtaew (covered pick-up) from seacon square.

not your average ooooooklahoma

2008-03-24T20:35:00.000-07:00

whenever i hear the phrase "dinner theater," a distant memory from a high school school orchestra trip to st. louis resurfaces: a bland dinner on a ferry boat (i.e. you can't get off) while watching a poor production of 'oklahoma!' accompanied by synthesizer. i don't search dinner theaters out.

rest assured, studio 9 patravadi theatre in the old city is nothing like 'oklahoma!' 3 major selling points to studio 9:
1. good thai and thai fusion food. i highly recommend the banana flower salad, the paprika chicken, and the magic chicken (translated from thai, it means "miraculous chicken").
2. thai traditional and contemporary art forms mixed to create original performances. i've seen acrobatic interpretive dance and an interpretation of eve and the serpent using thai dance and puppetry as well. the larger patravadi theatre is a great center for fostering thai performing arts and encouraging new works. i likey. when you come to studio 9, your show is included in the price of your meal.
3. it is super comfortable and hip and overlooking the chao phraya river. in case you happen to hate good food and entertainment, you'll at least enjoy being there. sleek and modern decor.

one waiter totally hit on dave. and when dave gasped when the acrobat made a drop-move, he made a point of coming over and saying, "don't worry, it's only show!"

it's only show!!
studio 9 (patravadi theatre). 69/1 soi wat rakang, arun amarain, siriraj, bangkok (across the chao phraya river).
since it is kind of confusing, there's a little map below.
entrees btw 100-300.
open sun-thur 11am-10pm, fri & sat 11am to midnight. performances fri & sat @ 7:30pm. make a reservation and ask for a table near the river. (02)866 2144

webby: www.patravaditheatre.com

a hundred children...and some teak furniture

2008-03-24T20:32:00.001-07:00

a hundred children

before going in, i had walked by "a hundred children" a couple times and always wondered, "what is this place and why is it called 'a hundred children.'" well, i at least know the answer to one of those questions: it's an "inspired chinese furniture store and coffee & tea corner."
it's a nice stop-in joint to get refreshed, with some (but not a lot) of seating, and i'm actually not sure how much of the seating/decor is for sale (i bet all of it); their second floor is all merch. they've got the standard coffee and espresso drinks, some pastries, and several chinese teas available, too. teas come in a set for two including a couple cookies and a full pot (150B), so sorry loners. i got one by myself and didn't feel one bit guilty about it. they'll also refill your hot water if you like.
bathroom definitely gets a mention. thick, rustic wooden doors that close by a giant plank you slide through (like an old castle). the toilet is completely rectangular and you retrieve your toilet paper from a terracotta, impish-looking child. and the sink faucet is a carved teak dragon head. i could spend all day in there.
i had to take a shot of something in the bathroom. it's too unique:a hundred children. sukhumvit soi 14. underneath the asoke BTS.
drinks between 60-150. operation mon-sat 9am-9pm
webby: www.royalteakltd.com

dubliner in thailander

2008-03-21T02:35:00.001-07:00

how could i not post about our favorite pub in all of this great city? the dubliner is irish-owned, with a real pub feel (translate: very masculine); i know not one person who doesn't love this place. 3 floors of dark, blocky wood tables chairs, irish decor and pool tables up at the top story. sometimes they even have an occasional irish band come play.

drinkies: wide range of imported beers - stella, paulaner, kilkenny, erdinger, corona, hefeweizen, guinness...you get it. standard thai beers, too - singha, leo, etc. handful of red and white wines by glass or bottle, too.

eats: burgers are (i'm guessing) more irish-style, meaning that they're not just beef, there's some other carby filling in the patty. they are large and in charge, just not traditional american style. other irish/western food offered, too, in the form of fish & chips, salads, sandwiches, steaks, etc. also a handful of thai dishes for those wanting an imported beer with their curry.

sweets: sticky toffee pudding is amazing, served hot with ice cream and oozing molten caramel. good enough to get even when you're full up to the throat. the apple thing is really delish, too (though i can't remember what it's called).

oh, we are indeed enjoying it.

dubliner. on sukhumvit, between soi 22 and 24.
drinks 100-300B, entrees 200-400B, desserts 200ish.
web-ers delight: www.dublinerbangkok.com

tamarind cafe: all things to all (vegetarian) people - CLOSED

2008-03-21T02:34:00.002-07:00

tamarind cafe

UPDATE: WENT BY LAST WEEKEND (8/3/08) AND THE PLACE IS CLOSED AND GUTTED. where did you go?

mixy mixy.
is tamarind a restaurant or gallery? is it casual or hip? is it eastern or western? the answer is yes; all of the above.

tamarind cafe has a definite western aesthetic (california hip) with a hint of eastern flare (i.e. only in the west do we fashion our food into vertical structures - they even have a dish called "tower of babel"). the vegetarian menu is good and definitely a good eat, though on the blander side of vegetarian cuisine. though, perhaps i'm getting too accustomed to the flavor-packed thai palate. the only thing that discourages me from coming more often is that the prices are about as oversized as the seating (again, re: thailand).

here's the skinny:
@ drinkies- mojitos lacked the punch of lime, mint, and rum. the two that ordered the mojitos ordered other drinks after. velvet underground was a mango smoothie with a hint of mint and a tiny beety bitter bite. i loved it (anything that has beets in it definitely gets a try).
@ appetizer: crispy mushroom with spicy sauce. crispy mushrooms lived up to its name. spicy sauce did not. but, still enjoyable. malaysian quesadilla, which is actually more like a stuffed roti was very nice. peanutty, robust, and comforting; flavored just right to lull you to sleep and give you dreams of home (your malaysian home, that is).
@ mains: green falafel sandwich pita was pretty much like any other falafel pita you could get, though a little lighter, though still one of the heartier items on the menu.
@ after-sweets: lemon cheesecake, which was actually lime, was a tiny, tart portion with a thick, crumbly crust but very good. it didn't last long. chocolate cake with ice cream was nice, but nothing spectacular or memorable (did it have ice cream?). tamarind cafe & gallery f-stop, 27 sukhumvit soi 20, closest BTS @ asoke.
appetizers ~ 150B+, entrees ~ 200B+, desserts ~200B, drinks ~100B+
webby: http://www.tamarind-cafe.com/

bittersweet

2008-03-21T01:58:00.000-07:00

bitter brown

there's something intrinsically inviting about bitter brown. tucked a little into asoke court with dark teaks, earthy greens and browns, contemporary art lining the walls, international easy listening playing in the background, you can't help but feel like a piece of eclectic, woodsy california is pulling you in, "the earth is calling you to return to it..." (that sounded a lot creepier than i intended).

most of their cuisine is euro-american - spaghettis, briskets, confit, etc. not extensive, but diverse enough to be interesting. their drink menu is similar - lattes, italian soda, teas, etc. it fits the general mood of the place: "simple".

though small, bitter brown is parsed in two halves - one half restaurant, one half coffee shop. restaurant-side is dark wood, craftsman-style blocky tables and chairs. coffee shop-side is a mix of eccentric comfy couches and chairs, with even a couple mats with triangle pillows for those who prefer to resume a supine position. across the driveway is a small outdoor courtyard with chairs and benches around a koi pond and pool lined by tropical shade trees. have your drink out there if you can manage the heat.
one place with three incarnations. makes any of us who are easily distracted feel a little more cared for.

bitter brown. @ asoke ct on asoke rd (sukhumvit soi 21), before the millennium grand hotel. exit MRT subway at the sukhumvit station. drinks around 30-100B, entrees 100-300B.

wrong side of the river

2008-03-20T03:00:00.000-07:00

damnoen saduak floating market

hearkening back to the thai days of old when daily life centered around canals and rivers and boating was a major form of transportation, damnoen saduak floating market has preserved a microcosm of thai traditional life along the river...plus a few hundred foreigners.more than anything, damnoen saduak is a good photo spot, catching vendors selling from hand-paddled longboats. there are also some decent eats from boat vendors. but, i'd recommend heading to other places to get a more authentic taste of thailand.i was surprised at how small the floating market is: take a stroll down both sides of the canal and you'll be back to your starting point in half-an-hour. in general, i was underwhelmed by the place; it felt a little contrived and hokey, like people dressed as wenches and peasants for a renaissance fair. you could buy your typical tzatchkis here, though you'll get a better price for the same things at any other market in bangkok. and after 10am the canal was a boat-to-boat jam of all the longboats of foreigners in the canal. i'm not sure how true this is, but a curious anecdote about damnoen saduak i learned from my thai studies is that it's a bit like the shepherdsons and grangerfords of huck finn. apparently, the two banks of the canal have feuded for years, creating a competitive and self-serving culture. after visiting amphawa floating market, just 13km away, i realized what a floating market could be. go there instead.

thai francophiles rejoice!

2008-03-18T00:18:00.000-07:00

savoury gastrocafe

any place that has "gastrocafe" in it's name has to be worthy of a check out. (also, any place with really plush seating is worthy of a check out).

savoury gastrocafe is the meeting of many contradictory things: s.e. asia meets france. utilitarian meets frivolity, clean, definite lines meets velvety sofas. and i LIKE it.
it ended up being a nice find since we weren't expecting much in the food court of siam paragon, but this little philippe starck-esque cafe was a perfect place to relax for a few hours while sipping iced drinks . all the food other patrons were eating was a little hard to not stare at. most of their food is less fusion and more separate-but-equal thai and french-esque.
i'm definitely going again. high marks on everything:
- environment - one of the only restaurants i've found that prefers silence over background music, options for seating, mid-bright lighting, waiters are attentive but let you do your thing.
- eats - delish. by biggest beef with fusion food is that it can often just mean blander, but all of the entrees and desserts were rich and delicious. pan-fried baby sea bass with herbed butter was well-seasoned (yeah, i sopped up all the butter. sue me.). duck confit was a fantastic combination of crispy duck served with grilled eggplant, squash and such.
- desserts. oh, the desserts. you could go for just desserts. the almond dacquois was fantastic - very nutty, moist, perfect ratio of pastry-to-cream-to-fresh-fruit. flourless chocolate cake was decadent. crunchy almond meringue with candied almonds layered with a smooth, light custard was divine, though you can't eat it without completely destroying it. the strawberry millefeuille 3 flaky layers of pastry, berries, and cream were light topping a generous lake of strawberry melba sauce.
sweet pea flower lemonade was light and pure and blue until you add the lime juice.
almond dacquois, with fresh fruit and fresh strawberry puree. sweet pea lemonade (which is actually limeade) behind.

savoury gastrocafe: lowest level of siam paragon in siam square. drinks around 100-200B, entrees around 250+B, desserts 100-200B.

crepes & co. with company

2008-01-10T23:38:00.000-08:00

johnny depp. musical theater (or theatre if you feel so inclined). one guy. sorry, dave. unfortunately, the conversation wasn't guy-friendly, but thankfully, the food made up for it.

crepes & co. was a little on the pricier side for crepes, but you gotta get the namesake of the restaurant. it was nice that we had a large enough group to have a little taste of a variety of sundries. there's a little more of a mediterranean-euro flare to their dishes, which makes the french crepe a little more interesting. favorites were
unfortunately, i didn't have the foresight to jot down which crepes we ate, but all the sweet, savory and dessert crepes we got were fantastic. i really liked one that had a camembert, fruit, and walnuts with honey (drool). and the sangria was irresistible.

crepes & co. has great indoor and outdoor seating, with a contemporary, dark wood/canvas style of decor. candlelit, spacious, natural, tropical bungalow feel.

crepes (sweet and savory) range from 150-300B. drinks 50-200B (depending on alcohol)
located at 18/1 sukhumvit soi 12 (closest BTS @ asoke)
webby: www.crepes.co.th

i did it myself at greyhound cafe

2008-01-01T00:08:00.000-08:00

thai culture seems an antithesis to the DIY (do-it-yourself) culture of the west. why do something when there's always somebody to do the job for you?
greyhound cafe epitomizes the DIY trend and manhattan cool (well, as much as a restaurant in bangkok can be) - which makes great ambience, but not always the most convenient experience. the furniture we were seated at, for example, was a table that was coffee table height while the chairs were taller and loungy so that our knees came up to table level and you're in half-reclining position. not exactly the most convenient arrangement for eating, but i felt cooler.
both entrees we ordered required assembly: dave's "DIY nachos" and my "complicated noodles" (yes, that's really what they're called). the grilled chicken with the nachos was surprisingly tender and generous for the amount of tortilla chips, which makes it feel more like a meal. making DIY nachos inevitably becomes the construction of each individual nacho, which is nice if you're anal or a "perfect bite" kind of person. my "complicated noodles" did live up to their name and actually required a little bit of brain power. how do you combine square sheets of noodle, ground seasoned pork, cilanto/mint sauce, and lettuce? first attempt at rolling all the ingredients in the noodle turned into an acrobatic juicy mess. second attempt at eating components individually didn't make it fun or as tasty. the final engineering solution was placing the flat noodle on my spoon, then piling the rest of the ingredients on top and then shoveling it all in my mouth. i'm still not sure that was right, but it made it taste good and i wasn't covered in juices. i do highly recommend the dish, though. the flavors mix and complement each other really well and the diversity of textures (crunchy, crispy lettuce, spicy ground pork, soft tender noodle) make a great dish.

ooh, drink highlight was the chinese plum sprite float which sounded too interesting not to order. chinese plum frozen into ice cubes thawing in sprite made a refreshing, robust, tart, unique drink. nicely done. and of course, it had to have a little DIY in it, too. the sprite comes in a separate glass pitcher so you can add it yourself.
left-right: complicated noodles, DIY nachos, chinese plum sprite float

international/fusion cuisine. about 200+B/entree (cheaper for the asian dishes), about 100B/drink
located at thonglor soi 15 "j avenue" (additional locations at emporium, chit lom central, siam center, la villa)
and for you web-savvy: http://www.greyhound.co.th/

who's the king? dosa king!

2007-12-30T21:44:00.000-08:00

on a random exploration into nana chard to find indian food, dosa king caught my eye.
for one, it's rarer to find restaurants that serve south indian food, and for two, especially one that specifically announces its dosa. dosas inevitably remind me of one of my old roommates' mom, who would always make dosas for us whenever we stayed over. dosas are large, thin, crispy, savory crepes that may or may not have filling (usually a potato bhaji) and served with sambars and chutneys. dosa king had a pretty good regular masala dosa that was especially crispy, had good sambars with it (i think one was a yogurt and one was a lentil), and a mildy spiced potato/onion bhaji. very homey.
lexie and i also ordered their vegetable korma (creamy, comforting vegs), kabuli channa (tomato based chickpeas dish), and garlic naan (buttery and garlicky enough)."
bev-wise, i had the badaam milk, a pain i subjected my-lactose-intolerant-self to because of its deliciousness: mildly sweet, almond milk spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. lexie got a creamy, tropically mango lassi that was also delightful.

badaam milk, mango lassi, and dosas with sambars.

vegetarian north & south indian food. about 150B/dish; about 100B/drink.
located @ 153/7 sukhumvit soi 11/1
and for all you web-savvy: www.dosaking.net

serithai park

2007-12-07T03:08:00.000-08:00

so, i'm discovering that bangkok has all these parks tucked back in sois that you need to be a little savvy to find (or have a friend who runs a lot).
sirithai park flanks a canal/khlong that you could walk along for around 2 hours, i've heard. in the park, it's wider so that it's more like a lake. it's got some nice gazebos, paved paths, and plenty of carpety-grass for picnicking (i strongly suggest an isaan picnic).
plus, like any good bangkok-ian park, it has tai chi in the mornings, draka courts, evening dance-aerobics. downside is if you want to play soccer - none allowed on the pristine grass.

located on Serithai Soi 43, (about 200m into the soi) across from the Bueng Kum District Office.

2007-12-07T02:11:00.000-08:00

In high school my favorite week of the year was Spirit Week, when everyone dressed up in different themes for each day. In Bangkok, every week is Spirit Week. But its not like high school where you can be Too Cool or Indie to participate. Here it is SO COOL to participate! This is the most spirited city! That said, I have to say--- my strongest recommendation for Bangkok so far (in my 5 days here) would be for this: Holidays.

Holidays are awesome!! Here is a short list of reasons why.
1) Everyone has off work!
2) Themes!! Such as decorations and spirited clothing/jewelry/patches.
3) Races. Who doesn't love a road race?
4) Special songs. :-)
5) Food and treats
6) Kids performances!
7) Balloons.
8) Fireworks and other firey things

All of these things were featured on the King's Birthday, December 5th!! The day included waves of yellow, candlelight ceremony, Thai dancing, beer and lots and lots of sanuk. I can't wait for the next holiday.

1 fish, 2 fish, big fish, even bigger fish

2007-11-29T01:47:00.000-08:00

who knew that in our little area was one of the best fishing spots in thailand was just down the street. bung (or beung) sam ran is known for its ginormous fish. seriously, it's amazing. check out this whopper (it's small in comparison to many of the other fish we saw caught) that we saw some guy catch.i think for the serious fisher, it might seem a little too easy to catch giant fish; it only takes 15 minutes or so to catch something child-sized. they've got giant mekong delta catfish, arapaima, and some other mutants. i wonder if they stock this place.

but, i haven't really gone for the fish. i'm just not that into it. i coming to this lake and picnic. it is so serene and calming to feel like you're in the country. it's beautiful and quiet and if you sit on the far side of the lake, no one bothers you and you can sit and enjoy the outdoors for hours. pick up some sticky rice and grilled chicken at the soi on the way in and you're set for the most relaxing afternoon of your life.

nitty gritty: in addition to human-sized fish, there is also a coffee shop, restaurants, arcade, massages, ice cream, convenience store, hammocks. it's like a little convenient village. you can rent a bungalow, (1 or 2 stories, with or without AC between 600-2000B; 200B extra if you spend the night). if you want to fish, it's 500B/rod, 1000B/license per rod.
Bung Sam Ran. Nawamin 42, several km in (catching a motorcycle taxi from the mouth of the soi is best).

webby: www.Bigfishingbungsamran.com

baiyoke tower 2

2007-11-29T01:14:00.000-08:00

it's hard to miss the baiyoke 2. it is obviously the tallest building in bangkok at 309 meters tall and is an easy landmark to spot if you're lost.

1 fl - if you're just going up to the observatory, it goes straight up from here. otherwise, head up to the 18th fl.
18th fl - hotel lobby (also where to buy buffet tickets, fruit cafe, coffee shop, gift shop)
77th fl - if you want a *slightly* thrilling ride, head up to the 77th fl for a glass elevator ride down - so very willy wonka.
82nd fl - Crystal Grill (i.e. buffet), 400B a person for dinner (it includes admission up to the observation deck). you can eat any kind of food here, just to name a few: roast lamb, indian braised beef curry, made to order fruit crepes with french vanilla ice cream, tacos, vietnamese shrimp salad, standard thai fare, sushi & nagiri, shishkabobs. as a frugal chinese-american woman, what can i say; it's a great deal. the food isn't the BEST, but it is a great spread and i definitely felt satisfied in quantity and quality as well as a great city view throughout the meal.
83rd fl - Roof top Bar. nice view, not the greatest ambience, but the city does look nice from up there.
84th fl - rotating observation deck that sounds strangely similar to an old metal rollercoaster as it rotates. on the stairs up from the buffet, the mural in the stairwell is of deep space, replete with alien statues for your posing pleasure. 200B just for the deck.

one night view of bangkok from the rotating observatory

on the 76th, 78th, and 79th floors are more buffets (bangkok sky grill - int'l; stella chinese buffet) but unfortunately, i haven't been and can't comment on them.

Baiyoke 2 Tower, located at 222 Ratchaprop Rd, Ratchathewi, 10400
very near Pratu Nam (just a short jaunt)

i am beginning...

2007-11-29T00:57:00.000-08:00

as a new (long-term, hopefully) resident of bangkok, i want to love *really love* this city. so thus begins the "organized" collection of my experiences in travel guide form. whoever you are reading this, enjoy! i hope you find bangkok to be as lovable as i do with all that it has to offer.