buddha has size 400 feet.

wat pho

every tourist makes a requisite visit to the grand palace and the temple of the emerald buddha. there is nothing else in the world quite like it. wat pho is like the neglected step-child situated just next door. those with extra time make the stop here.

i love wat pho. it's more serene, it seems as if more thai people actually come to make merit, and it's unique. wat pho is known for its prestigious massage school (you can get a traditional thai massage by a student - though it's usually more expensive than other traditional thai massages) and i like the painted anatomy diagrams that i'm convinced influenced the illustration of the poor patient of the "operation" game.also, you can see a giant reclining buddha. why is he reclining? i'm not really sure. my dad made a lame joke about how a standing buddha couldn't fit in the temple. nyuk nyuk. seriously, this reclining buddha is gigantically impressive with his massive feet embedded by myriad reliefs made of mother-of-pearl. and if you're into making merit, you can exchange your big-bill bahts for a wadful of coin bahts to drop into the chain of alms bowls, clinking all the while.if you're looking for thai herbal products or remedies, the street lining the north wall of wat pho has a slurry of shops hawking traditional oils, teas, powders, elixirs (how many opportunities can you legitimately find to use that word), and and other homeopathic tools.

wat pho, maharat road. near the grand palace on the side of the river.
50 baht entrance for foreigners.

what i learned about life from the dusit zoo

dusit zoo

if you're looking for an mind zoological experience, don't come to the dusit zoo. if you're looking for a fun day with a bunch of animals, here's your place. forget the many precautions of the west, throw up a little fence or window and you're up close and personal with the beasts.

on psychology:
"warfare. sometimes we are agressive and fight each other." the other monkeys are projecting their frustrations from the failing economy.
on body image: why not lay around in a pool naked with your friends? on diet: "we can choose which special plant to eat when we are sick for medicinal purposes." i guess you could call some purposes "medicinal"...on dating: "[they] may spray their scent on trees or rocks to mark their territory, the scents given out by females shows signs of readiness to mate." so that's the piece i've been missing!"myth = eating tiger meat, es-pecially the sex organs will give you special power. wrong. tiger meat is just another protein like any animal meat, eating tiger meat is unlawful." man! i was really craving a tiger-testicle-burger.
and lastly...
on etiquette:
keep your hands to yourself! yes, that is a picture of a dismembered human hand in a crocodile's mouth.
dusit zoo, 71 rama v, dusit.
open 8a-6p. 100B - foreigner entrance fee.
webby: www.dusitzoo.org

sound of silence

kanchanaburi

for history buffs, kanchanaburi is the sleepy province a stone's throw from bangkok perfect for lazing around, catching up on ww2 history, and enjoying tranquil, understated natural landscapes.
fast fact = the original name of the river is actually "mae klong" and was renamed "kwai yai" in 1960.

accomodations:
the oriental kwai resort is entirely peaceful and relaxing. go here if you want to do nothing. the owners evelien and joe were incredibly warm yet out-of-the-way. the resort's 10-or-so cottages are situated on the river kwai and scattered on the resort's lush landscape. the oriental kwai is beautifully designed, in its crimson, cream, and teak motifs - blending thai styles with simple western forms.my favorites: large dvd collection, pool toys (yes, i am an adult), hammocks, great resort restaurant (thai and dutch dishes that we never got tired of). i can't say we were disappointed there isn't more of a bustling tourism industry in kanchanaburi because we literally ate every meal and didn't leave the resort out of sheer lounging delight. i say supine is the best way to vacation.oriental kwai resort
bungalows 2,400-4,400B/night. 03-458-8168
webby: http://www.orientalkwai.com/

movie plug:
one of the tastes i wish i could acquire is for old movies. my preference for pacing and editing lies more with contemporary film. since we were at the river kwai, we figured bridge on the river kwai was worth a viewing. the 1957 seven academy-award-winning film based on the novel "bridge over the river kwai" explores themes of loyalty, heroism, achievement, and survival over the construction of the thai-burma railway built by the japanese conscripting p.o.w. musclepower during w.w.2 and was surprisingly engrossing for an oldie. at the end, all seven of us viewers were yelling at the screen - which for me means good movie. (p.s. if you hate watching movies with back-talkers, never watch a movie with me). do stuff:
part of the thai-burma railway, the bridge on the river kwai, though once destroyed by the allied forces in w.w.2, has been rebuilt and now a tourist attraction. over 100,000 civilians and p.o.w's lost their lives during the japanese-driven construction of this railway, built without consideration of loss of life. you can now walk across this small, steel bridge, or, ride a train over the bridge and back for 20B.floating restaurant. this restaurant adjacent to the infamous "bridge on the river kwai" is often just called "floating." specializing in seafood, their menu has an extensive selection of river fish, sea fish and other sea creatures. slightly pricey at around 150-400B/entree and a popular stop for tour groups, we ordered too much food and ate it all. i recommend the ruby fish with green mango salad (the fish itself was incredibly fresh and delicious) and the *misnamed* deep-fried banana salad. this "laab blaa-tu" was delicious and but, oh my god, so spicy.
getting there:
it's easiest to rent a car and drive yourself there or hire a car. check out kanchanaburi's tourism site for their recommended airport pick-ups and services.
webby: http://www.kanchanaburi-info.com/en/index.html

fireflies and loveliness

amphawa floating market

after my trip to the damnoen saduak floating market, i was content to never visit a floating market again. the 2 hour travel, contrived "traditional way-of-life," overpricing, and hordes of tourists were a turn-off, to say the least.thank god for redemption; after visiting amphawa floating market, my faith in floating markets has been restored. so, hurry up and get your butt over to amphawa before it gets dirty and stops being quaint and charming. the market open weekends, friday to sunday.

do stuff:
amphawa is known for its fireflies, which can be admired year-round, but in greatest abundance in hot season (apr-may). take an evening longtail boat tour down the river for 60B/person and watch the riverbanks flicker like christmas trees. most tours include other sites along the river, like fishing spots, temples, and sugar palm-making homes. plenty of companies along the market have tours that are all pretty much the same. take your pick.
you, too, can shop! the amphawa is much more of a DIY community than many other tourist spots, so we were able to find many more handmade and creative wares. the handmade glow-in-the-dark firefly cell phone charms at 39B each were my favorite souvenirs there. you know you want one.

just for a moment, suppose anthropologie and thailand had a lovechild. taramart is that lovechild. the first floor boutique sells hip, yet rustic, brightly printed tops and thai fishing pants and lady-bags while the eclectic, country-meets-chic second floor tea room has bright, inventive tea blends at 85B a pot. 081-696-4797
eats:
staying true to thai form, a great trip must have great eats. and as small as it is, there is so much great food at amphawa. in my opinion, these are the requisite "best eats"
*ice creams and sorbets at kumpan (กำปั่น) restaurant are homemade and delightfully thai. we tried (from l-r) star-gooseberry sorbet, apricot-guava sorbet, and coconut un-chun ice cream (our fave) for 35B a cup. *grilled river prawns. oh no, you shall not call these shrimp, for shrimp are not the length of your hand. these are prawns. and they are delicious. buy a plateful for 30B, then promptly buy another.*khao griap (ข้าวเกรียบ). a foot in diameter and impossibly delicate, lightly sweetened, grilled rice crepes. sorry, i forgot to take a picture, but it's worth buying a 20B bag of 3 crepes here, since everyone else's version tends to be a thicker, deep-fried, or savory version.

*amphawa also has a ton of beautifully-presented and delicious traditional thai snacks and desserts that are too numerous to list or even recommend. just eat your way around.
fat = happy, right?accomodations:
thanicha resort
amphawa is known for their "homestays" which means anything from crashing on some family's floor to a bed & breakfast. thanicha boutique resort is a charming thai-style teak bed & breakfast within walking distance from the market, modest and simple rooms and friendly service. it's like staying at a friend's house. you know, your hip, retro-traditional thai friend with 10 or so extra rooms. it was lovely.webby: www.thanicha.com/indexe.htm
03-472-5511

getting there:
amphawa floating market is in samut songkhram, and a mere 13km from damnoen saduak.
ac vans from victory monument, mo chit, and the southern bus terminal for 70-100B (depending on where they drop you off) that leave hourly (or more frequently, if busy).
also buses from the southern bus terminal.

chiang mai, v. 2.0

chiang mai

i'm sure this will only be #2 of many chiang mai visits. such a manageable-sized city. so many natural attractions. so much culture.
biggest tip: rent a motorcycle for ~250B/24 hours and go wherever you like. on to the attractions!

going up doi suthep-pui... the doi suthep-pui national park is the closest national park to chiang mai city and sits just north-west of the city. easy to get to, you can take a red pick-up (song taew) from anywhere in the city. aside from the huay kaew and montathan waterfalls (in my last chiang mai post), head up a little further for this legend:
king na naone of the lanna kingdom in the 14th century got a hold of a buddhist relic (buddha's shoulder bone?) and stuck it on the back of a white elephant and released it into the jungle, proclaiming, "may this elephant stop suddenly when it reaches a suitable place to house this relic." it ran up the mountain and at some point stopped to rest and trumpeted three times. so the king built wat phalad on that site. it sits over a stream that runs down the mountain. quite peaceful and scenic with no tourists whatsoever. no anybody really. shrines overlooking the mountain stream. the elephant went further up the mountain, reached a point where it stopped, turned around 3 times, trumpeted another 3 times and then died. so the king built wat phratat doi suthep on that site, which is a major tourist attraction. i'm a horrible person to review wats since there are just sooooo many in thailand and they just are the same after a while. what's different about this wat doi suthep? it's big, it's well-kept, it overlooks the mountain, and has a heart-rate raising staircase up to the wat. besides that, it's kind of like every other wat in thailand.lots of vendors at the base of the wat. here's a vendor with her daughter adorned in traditional hill-tribe dress selling northern thai sausages. 100B entrance fee for non-thais.

further up doi suthep and unrelated to the white elephant legend, phuping palace is one of the royal vacation houses that the royal family still uses. while the buildings are closed to the public, the extensive landscaped grounds are available to stroll. if you like botanical gardens, you'll enjoy phuping palace. 50B entrance for non-thais, 20B thai.

as the fifth highest peak in thailand, doi pui is still further up the mountain and offers a 3km (roughly 1-2hr loop) hike up to the summit from the campsite. it is quite a hike, the second half being more difficult terrain than the first. don't expect a spectacular view at the top, it's mostly blocked by jungle. see? but, if you like hiking, it is a very good and unpopulated hike and it's free. here's part of the trail:
khantoke...
khantoke is a northern thai tradition of serving a meal on a raised tray (called "toke") to honored guests. in the 50s, a businessman invented modern khantoke to entertain special vips, introducing the now widely available popular dinner show. sit on the floor, enjoy unlimited northern thai food, and watch some great thai dancing and traditions. there are several venues ranging in price all over the city. i visited two, the original khantoke dinner called the old chiang mai cultural center and khum khantoke. overall, i'd say that khum khantoke is a better experience but i had a lot of fun at both and wholeheartedly recommend both.
just cause you want to know, here are pros/cons of each.
old chiang mai cultural center: well-established, better dancers (you can tell they pick their dancers by their skill over their attractiveness/size), separate hill tribe show performed by actual members of each of those tribes, 370B/person (including food, pick-up and drop-off at your hotel).
webby: http://www.oldchiangmai.com/index_en.php khum khantoke: it's more of a "show," meaning that it's more about the photo-taking and the production. better food, prettier venue, more photo ops (for tips), really fun. cons are that it's a bit pricier at XXX, further out of the way.
webby: http://www.khumkhantoke.net/

gardens...
i'm getting tired of writing so these reviews will have to be in haiku form.
tweechol botanic garden:
sculpted shrubbery
nature manipulated
hey, it's a hotel!webby: http://www.tweecholbotanicgarden.com/map.php
ratchaphruek garden:
celebrate the king
international landscape
a fading world's fair
free admission, open 10a-6p except mondays, located next to the night safari.

mae sa valley...
home to various orchid farms, elephant farms, monkey centers, and hill tribe cultural centers, there's a lot to do the mae sa valley (25 km north of chiang mai).
mae sa waterfall - you like to semi-vigorously hike? 10 tiers of waterfalls and a heart-stimulating 1+km hike.
eats (honorable mentions)...
the salsa mexican restaurant - inventive tasty mexican food (and jamaican, too). even more than the food, i have to promote their mexican coffee. liqueur-y, creamy, subtly orangey, spiced, delicious mexican coffee. it warrants suffering through consuming caffeine late at night. located on huay kaew, just NE of the central mall.

libernard cafe - a plus coffee. homey bungalow ambience. hippie-foodie-friendly banana whole-wheat pancakes. being there, you just want to hug somebody. hidden off the main street at 41 moon muang.the amazing sandwich - you want to feel like you're in america? go get a no-frills, no-nonsense sandwich you'd make if you weren't too lazy to buy all the imported ingredients. webby: http://www.amazingsandwich.com/

until next time, chiang mai...

siem reap

siem reap, cambodia

now cambodia's top travel and tourist destination, surpassing phnom penh, siem reap means "the siamese were defeated." siem reap is smaller than expected with most of its recreation activities being angkor wat or one of the myriad ngo's.

angkor wat archaelogical park
enough angkor wat pictures, already! everybody does angkor wat at sunset, pb at sunset or maybe pre rup and how can you forget ta phrom with the giant trees growing out of the temple. depending on your adventurousness and temple-interest, you could spend up to 3 full days exploring. i got templed out and made small jaunts out to frolic in the ruins. it's grand and inspiring nonetheless. i particularly liked that so many of the facades were pleasantly smiling figures; it lends a playfulness to the wear of time.

artisans d'angkor
ngo dedicated to artistic conservation and education. head over to their lacquerware complex or their silk farm to take a tour of their facilities, watch art being made and taught and buy some pricey, high-quality souveneirs.
webby: www.artisansdangkor.com

fcc - the fcc complex hosts a few small galleries most interesting being the red gallery, featuring contemporary cambodian artists and the mcdermott gallery, showcasing john mcdermott's iconic and ethereal photography of angkor wat.located at pokambor ave. webby: www.fcccambodia.com/angkor

eats: butterflies garden restaurant boasts a meal amongst a tropical butterfly garden. i think i saw like 3 butterflies. decent cambodian and western menu.
webby: www.butterfliesofangkor.com

streetside "plai tuek-doh koh" or "milk fruit" tastes like a larger, softer, very sweet and refreshing persimmon. very nice.
fcc - also at this hotel complex, resides chic and cosmopolitan haute cuisine in the open air. happy hour ($1 draft beers, 50% off all other drinks). fresh, verdant salads. moroccan beef sandwich was superb topped with pickled carrots and goat cheese, sided by potato straws. webby: http://www.fcccambodia.com/angkor/angelina's - loose beef baguette burger. it doesn't say it's "loose beef," but i like that phrase and that's what it is. angelic, pillowy baguettes made by ecole hotel's culinary school; i bought a half-dozen loaves to bring back to thailand. located in the old market area.
the strong of heart and stomach can try the street cambodian baguettes - fatty braised pork belly, green papaya salad (more relish-like), au jus, chili sauce, cucumber. i prefer the vietnamese incarnation, but this one's a dollar full stomach.

accomodations: pavillion d'orient
in addition to the many charms of pavillion d'orient they have all the comforts you need (read: want): saltwater pool, spa, unlimited wi-fi, above and beyond service, personal driver, nightly cambodian bedtime story (and movie guide). it's the small surprises that endear. i promise that you will adore this place.webby: http://www.pavillon-orient-hotel.com/

here are my top 10 handy dandy travel tips to siem reap:
1. bring plenty of $1USD bills. i found it easier to get around on US cash than changing to cambodian riel or using thai baht (the exch isn't as good for baht). things are so cheap that you could get by solely on $1s and $5s.
2. drink the surprisingly good and local angkor beer and abc stout (8%alc!)
3. be a generous tipper. most hotel workers (or other vocations at that level) earn about $50-60/mo even at luxury resorts, keeping them in working poverty. a couple extra dollars is trivial for you and makes a huge difference for those who are serving you.
4. enjoy the cambodians. don't overlook these resilient, kind and gentle people. try to hear some of their stories; i'm amazed over and again.
5. eat bread. being a former french protectorate, delicious baguettes and croissants abound. i gasped when i first tasted such a flaky, light, buttery croissant my first morning.
6. do your research - not all ngos are beneficial to cambodians. check into them before donating.
7. take it easy. unlike other tourist destinations, siem reap is pretty small and doesn't have much other than angkor wat and some smaller attractions. stop running around and enjoy your company.
8. buy a krama or scarf. they're cheap, they're versatile, they're currently hip in the west, and you can find them virtually anywhere.
9. keep your smile on. nobody likes a sourpuss. and don't be an ass to the kids and vendors selling souveneirs.
10. get your visa online at e-visa. so much easier and quicker than applying for a visa on arrival. http://www.mfaic.gov.kh/e-visa/vindex.aspx

feeling krabi

krabi

wasn't feeling the ever-popular trek to phuket, koh samui nor any of the lamer-but-closer beaches to bkk. so to krabi it was. mostly, it's cheaper to stay here, pretty cheap to get here, and lots of options for getting around to the hotspots, like phi phi islands or any of the other million islands.

DO STUFF.
honestly, krabi town isn't really all that exciting. you need to get out. there are a million and one tours available and everyone's trying to sell you one. pick a place you like and ask around - you can always get a bargain. scratch that; you should always get a bargain. if you bargain thai style, you'll get further: keep it fun and humorous and you'll always get a better deal if you can make a friend. (our phi phi island day tour costs 1800B/adult if you book online, but after bargaining with our hotel, we got 1000B/head. *self-congratulatory hand gesture*). and they always pick you up at your hotel, so no anxieties about additional transpo.

we ended up with koh phi phi tours. - they've got other boat and bus tours available in the area. we took the phi phi island tour. tell me this isn't beautiful.maya bay on phi phi le. beautiful cove.viking cave, where birds' nests are harvested. for what? for eating. ask a chinese person. we went snorkeling near here. i wish i had an underwater camera.bamboo island off phi phi. crystal clear waters, pure white sands.
webby: www.phiphitours.com
you can book online, but you'll be charged 1800B/adult. if you happen to acquire a great deal with koh phi phi tours, great - i give them a thumbs up; but again, ask around for tour deals for whatever company.

railay bay - though not an island, you can only get to railay beach via half-hour longtail boat ride (either from 150B krabi town pier or 90B aonang bay) because of the rocky, mountainous terrain. the pics don't do it justice - the water is glass-clear.known for its rock climbing, railay draws a younger crowd. there are 3 beaches on this peninsular land mass. east is ugly and dirty (and therefore used mainly for transportation), phra nang cave beach which has beautiful rock climbing and tall cliff faces guarding the beach, and west which hosts most of the accomodations. watch out for the mini undetectable jellyfish that can give you a nice smart. between east and phra nang beaches, you'll find a steep 200-300m climb (think 45+degrees) up to a view point and the lagoon. not for the faint of heart. we couldn't make it to the lagoon which required an additional steeper climb down and up a gorge. pity.

we also saw a tour to go to the tiger cave temple, hot springs, and waterfall. after finding out that we could rent a motorcycle for 250B/day through our hotel, we opted for the less-safe, free-scheduled, and 10-times-cheaper motorcycle rental. if you don't know how to ride a motorbike, yet - you can learn in 5 minutes.
here are our motorcycle escapades:
huay toh waterfall - 3 tiers with an option for a longer hiking trail into the khao phanom bencha national park (to the peak of the mountain).22km from krabi town, 100B entrance, 20B parking.

tiger cave temple (wat tam sua) - buddhist shrine built into a cave with many monks and nuns living in tiny shelters in the rock. for the fit and pious, there is an imprint of buddha's footprint located 1000+ steps up the mountain. also fyi, no tigers. there's just a rock formation that looks like a tiger paw.another sight they feature here: "big tree." i coudn't figure which one of the "big trees" was "the big tree." the coolest one was this one with the nun meditating in it. 16km from krabi town, free.

hot waterfall - think natural jacuzzi (unlike other hot springs which are boiling or sulfur-stinky). very, very nice. i could spend all day here. crystal clear water, strong jacuzzi-strength streams, natural rock formations that are various sized tubs, and a chilly river it flows into (so you can get the whole hot-cold alternations).~60 km from krabi town, 90B entrance, 5B parking.

emerald lagoon/pool - about 1km in from the entrance, you come upon a crystal clear, natural pool (almost exactly like a swimming pool) fed by mineral streams, which have tinted the rocks a slight blue-green hue. room temp, very refreshing. again, i could stay here all day. if you come late afternoon, there are much less people and the surrounding forest shades the pool. we ran out of time and couldn't make it to their less popular (superstition) blue pool.~60 km from krabi town (only several km from the hot waterfall), a hefty 200B entrance (yikes! if you can pass for thai, it's only 20B), 10B parking.

krabi town night markets - you want fruit, southern curries, the normal market fare? head over to the open market at thanon maharat soi 10.want street-side dinner off carts? head over to the night market at thanon khlongkha @ the longtail boat pier.
want to see where these places are? check out this google map.

getting there:
i like ease and domestic flights in thailand are relatively cheap. fly into the small krabi airport and you can take either a taxi (about 350+B) or a shuttle bus to your hotel (90B/person for krabi city, 150B/p for aonang)

lodging: baan andaman
i have to give a rec for baan andaman; thai-style, simple, free wi-fi, wide-screen tvs, and we found great tour/day activity deals from them. it's situated away from the center of the city, but definitely within walking distance to restaurants and markets (10 min to the pier). and it smells nice (fresh, like thai herbs). oh, and my favorite was that they left a little snack in our room every day.
(i went through agoda.com, and got a pretty good price. i've used agoda a couple of times and have been really satisfied with their service.)