thai bread balloon

"pung weii...heii!"

ปังเว้ยเฮ้ย

western and eastern bread were not created equal. while western bread prizes the development of crust, tooth-someness, and a certain yeastiness, eastern bread delights in airiness, velvety oiliness, and what you can stuff in it.

this is the bread made to addict the thai palate.

"pung weii...heii" makes football-sized buns and loaves that bake up to a fluffy balloon packed (yes, really packed) with fillings. sweet fillings include red bean, blueberry, vanilla cream, raisins, taro, corn, coconut, and chocolate almond among others. savories include pork floss (who knows what else to call it. we chinese call it "ro-song"), tuna salad, ham and cheese, sausage, ham salad, and red pork. before you poo-poo this place as ordinary or un-noteworthy, just try it. i've already been twice this week and have daydreamed about what to try next.

while this place is out of the way (unless you live near a branch), there is a constant flow of people coming to buy regardless of the fact that there is no seating and you have to eat it in your car or take it home. or if you're impatient like me, inhale it immediately before you have a chance to figure out what to do next. who needs seating?

i've had the red bean, taro, and pork floss buns and i'm hooked. each bun is totally heavy because of how much junk they stuff inside. the taro bun was like a paperweight. the pork floss loaf had like a dense brick of pork floss inside. the sweet buns weren't too sweet and very fresh. this is the stuff dreams are made of. of course, while there are so many flavors to choose from, there are several i will NOT be trying - like "butter"!?!? and the "mixed fruit" bun is just stuffed with candied fruit chunks used in fruitcake.

every bun is a steal at 20B. so while you may feel guilty about eating five loaves, your wallet won't.

"pung weii...heii!" (ปังเว้ย...เฮ้ย!)

kaset-nawamin (new) @ marker 138 (it's the road btw nawamin sois 74 & 76, there's a mcdonalds on the corner)

085-444-0580

8am-10pm

other locations:

*town in town (02-539-2119)

*ratchayothin (02-513-5570)

*wachraphon intersection (086-996-9447)

*laksi (02-521-4107)

a better butter

little home bakery

what american doesn't love a good brunch here and there? what other meal can be leisurely stretched into two meals? what other meal is only socially acceptable on weekends? what other meal can legitimately pack in tons of carbs and butter?

i guess that's what it comes down to: butter. here in asia, the reigning fat solid is an orange, vegetable oil margarine-like substance, whose unmistakable fragrance wafts out of every bakery. it also leaves that distinctive oily aftertaste when you shove down a pork floss bun.

and this is where little home bakery stands tall in its stalwart defense of BUTTER! their goods have the full, rounded flavor of butter. and in case that's not enough for you, your banana pancake (80B) or strawberry waffle (95B) comes with a proud, defiant scoop of white, smooth butter melting in glory.

for those "brunch-should-block-my-arteries" folks, you can always get the american breakfast with two eggs, bacon, pancakes, grilled tomato, fried potatoes, coffee and juice (165B). and for those disgusted by that, you can always order from their extensive thai menu (75-125B).

bright, sunny, half-diner-half-cafe ambience, little home bakery's a perfect spot to meet your friends for butter - i mean, brunch.

little home bakery

thonglor, between soi 23-25

weekdays 8am-9pm, weekends 9am-9pm

webby: http://www.littlehome.co.th/

it's as exciting as toast

after you

it's dry, it used to be bread, it is light tan - it's toast!

oh ye of little faith, believe me when i tell you this toast is worth it. 3 inches tall and smothered with shibuya honey, nutella, peanut butter & bananas or other scrumptious sundries plus ice cream and whipped cream - this isn't your grandma's toast. this is toast in splendor.

for all ye nonbelievers, don't worry, after you has other desserts. between 4 of us, 5 desserts didn't stand a chance. two toasts, applesauce brownie (with ice cream), baked sundae (lava cookie with ice cream), millecrepe (crepes stacked with whipped cream), and four quadruple bypasses. i pity our arteries and the cow that had to produce all the cream we consumed.

baked sundae oozing

applesauce brownie. light, yet intensely chocolatey.

millecrepe with creme brulee-sugared top.

my only regret was not being able to try one of their many coffee drinks. i am not of the breed who's able to drink coffee at night and not become a vampire. next time, i'm getting my lazy butt up for breakfast (since after you opens at 7am) and throwing down a coffee and a breakfast toast. yes, savory or sweet, you can have your toast at any time of day.

after you

thonglor soi 13, j avenue

desserts 145-200B

open 7am-midnight

02 712 9266

other locations @ paholyothin la villa and central world 7th fl.

she works at night

smiley "i cream"

walk down pradipat road during the day and you feel like you're in any generic part of asia. you got your stores, your street vendors, your restaurants, your hotels. but glory! when night falls, pradipat explodes into a thriving street-walking hotspot. we can thank the thriving "massage" industry for that (not so glory). all sorts of things come out at night.

you want to get your happy ending?

stop for ice cream. what were you thinking? you and your dirty mind! it's not that kind of post. 270/19 pradipat is a generic gold shop by day - but oh ho! by night, it unfurls as a homemade ice cream shop.

want a sign? too bad, you won't find one. the nice owner-lady had to tell us the name of the shop, "smiley," since apparently secret ice cream shops are more fitting with the massage parlors.

when i went, the very nice lady told us about her ice cream: it's more like sorbet rather than a heavy, thick gelato. hers are refreshing, using traditional thai flavors like farang buey (syrup-soaked guava), dragonfruit & cranberry, or coconut among other traditional flavors like cookies & cream or strawberry.

for 20B a scoop, your ice cream comes with specially paired toppings like spicy sugar or thai sour plums.

i also like the old guy sitting out in the shop. he's like the sweet lady's sour plum - all he said was, "hey, did they pay you, yet?" of course, nothing on pradipat is free.

smiley ice cream

270/19 pradipat rd. (btw soi 19 & 21)

nearest bts @ saphan kwai

no, it's not a gay bar, but it is fabulous

the fabulous

when i walk down khao san rd, it looks virtually the same as the first time i came to bangkok in 2002. boho backpackers in wannabe beach environs, red bull tees, tribeswomen selling jangling accessories, pad thai every 10m, etc.

that's what makes the fabulous, extra-uber fabulous. this adorable coffee-dessert shop tucked away off of khao san rd is a welcome oasis of retro-style, quiet, and best of all: absence of seediness.

unlike other establishments in the area, this unique shop feels more akin to the cafes along thonglor or ekamai, flaunting its twee ambience. it's cute and it knows it. what else would you expect of a place that has an antique record player actually spinning records that don't play music?

free wifi, illy coffees (70-100+B), desserts (100-160B).

the fabulous

webby: http://groups.to/the_fabulous

32 jakkapong rd, next to the true coffee shop.

hours 10am-12:30am.

02 629-1144

i will punch you in your face

house of beers

i will fist-fight any person who disputes the superiority of belgian beers. traveling belgium this past spring, it was a personal goal to have a glass of beer in one hand and a cone of pommes frites in the other. i almost cried when luggage restrictions kept me from packing any beers in baggage on the way back to bangkok..

thank god for house of beers, bangkok's happy belgian beer home. they carry 3 of 6 of the belgian trappistes (rochefort, chimay, orval) and a hefty list of other notable bottles (leffe, tripel karmaliet, waterloo, maredsous). you have to trust a brewing tradition that has its origins in trappist monasteries. god himself told them how to make beers. didn't you know that "jehovah brewmaster" is one of god's titles in the old testament? here, true to its name, it really is about the beer - no skimpily dressed waitresses, no extensive food menu, just beer, mussels, and a few other items. and expect to pay for your beer love - they run upwards of 250B for an imported bottle.

personal favorites?

chimay blue: been my favorite beer for years. this one converted me to belgians. just drink one.

tripel karmaliet: surprisingly intensely flavorful with high alc content for a light beer. the triple distillation's no joke.

rochefort 8: out of rochefort's 6, 8, and 10, i think 8's the best. rich maltiness in a clean, dark beer.

maredsous: if you're looking for something a little unusual, try this monastery's beer. slightly more acidic with a distinct peanutty flavor.

waterloo double dark: tried it at HOB for the first time. smooth, creamy, malty - a beautiful dark.

HOB, i'm moving in...just charge it to my tab.

house of beers.

522/3 thonglor (soi 16). "penny's balcony (1F)."

hours: 11am-midnight

02 392-3513

have i ever told you the story...

the chocolate tales

...when i savored delicious, dense, rich cheesecake in bangkok? when it comes to cheesecake, i uphold the gold standard to be junior's in brooklyn, the dense, thick, creamy, classic cheesecake. the kind so hefty you have to hold it on your tongue to let the white gold melt. (thank god it takes time to eat, otherwise you might have to eat it with a defibrillator on hand). some find it to be too dry or too heavy. in my opinion it means you don't like cheesecake, then. the lighter, milkier cheesecake (like at coffee beans by dao) resembles more of a cream or cheese pie to me. fine for what it is, but not cheesecake.

a friend raved about the chocolate tales' cheesecake and i kept my fingers crossed. i'd already decided not to eat any cheesecake - my tummy was rumbly and the thought of eating heavy dairy sounded nauseating. well, the mind holds power over the body and we ordered a mixed berry new york cheesecake because it just looked stunning - the color, the height, consistency along with a white chocolate brownie cheesecake, each at 120B/slice. they were fantastic, not as thick as junior's, but delicious and worthy of respect. paired with a lavazza americano (70B), it was perfect...until my already disgruntled tummy had words with me. we all know that we just have to sacrifice the tummy sometimes for the greater good of the tastebuds. the chocolate tales also has other pastries on display, like a matoom cake, chocolate horlicks cake and crepes and parfaits on their menu. i'm interested in trying some of their specialty chocolate drinks but i'm afraid of developing instant type 2 diabetes.

the chocolate tales
silom soi 7, intersecting with narathiwat ratchanakarin soi 3. nearest bts @ chongnonsi.
100-300B. 02-2340210
webby: www.thechocolatetales.com (site not yet up)

fireflies and loveliness

amphawa floating market

after my trip to the damnoen saduak floating market, i was content to never visit a floating market again. the 2 hour travel, contrived "traditional way-of-life," overpricing, and hordes of tourists were a turn-off, to say the least.thank god for redemption; after visiting amphawa floating market, my faith in floating markets has been restored. so, hurry up and get your butt over to amphawa before it gets dirty and stops being quaint and charming. the market open weekends, friday to sunday.

do stuff:
amphawa is known for its fireflies, which can be admired year-round, but in greatest abundance in hot season (apr-may). take an evening longtail boat tour down the river for 60B/person and watch the riverbanks flicker like christmas trees. most tours include other sites along the river, like fishing spots, temples, and sugar palm-making homes. plenty of companies along the market have tours that are all pretty much the same. take your pick.
you, too, can shop! the amphawa is much more of a DIY community than many other tourist spots, so we were able to find many more handmade and creative wares. the handmade glow-in-the-dark firefly cell phone charms at 39B each were my favorite souvenirs there. you know you want one.

just for a moment, suppose anthropologie and thailand had a lovechild. taramart is that lovechild. the first floor boutique sells hip, yet rustic, brightly printed tops and thai fishing pants and lady-bags while the eclectic, country-meets-chic second floor tea room has bright, inventive tea blends at 85B a pot. 081-696-4797
eats:
staying true to thai form, a great trip must have great eats. and as small as it is, there is so much great food at amphawa. in my opinion, these are the requisite "best eats"
*ice creams and sorbets at kumpan (กำปั่น) restaurant are homemade and delightfully thai. we tried (from l-r) star-gooseberry sorbet, apricot-guava sorbet, and coconut un-chun ice cream (our fave) for 35B a cup. *grilled river prawns. oh no, you shall not call these shrimp, for shrimp are not the length of your hand. these are prawns. and they are delicious. buy a plateful for 30B, then promptly buy another.*khao griap (ข้าวเกรียบ). a foot in diameter and impossibly delicate, lightly sweetened, grilled rice crepes. sorry, i forgot to take a picture, but it's worth buying a 20B bag of 3 crepes here, since everyone else's version tends to be a thicker, deep-fried, or savory version.

*amphawa also has a ton of beautifully-presented and delicious traditional thai snacks and desserts that are too numerous to list or even recommend. just eat your way around.
fat = happy, right?accomodations:
thanicha resort
amphawa is known for their "homestays" which means anything from crashing on some family's floor to a bed & breakfast. thanicha boutique resort is a charming thai-style teak bed & breakfast within walking distance from the market, modest and simple rooms and friendly service. it's like staying at a friend's house. you know, your hip, retro-traditional thai friend with 10 or so extra rooms. it was lovely.webby: www.thanicha.com/indexe.htm
03-472-5511

getting there:
amphawa floating market is in samut songkhram, and a mere 13km from damnoen saduak.
ac vans from victory monument, mo chit, and the southern bus terminal for 70-100B (depending on where they drop you off) that leave hourly (or more frequently, if busy).
also buses from the southern bus terminal.

sensory stimulation

true urbanpark

the true coffee shops are almost as ubiquitous here in bangkok as the starbucks branches. whereas starbucks makes a point to give you the same experience in every starbucks joint, regardless of the country or place, true coffee has a lot more variety and design in their shops. the true coffee in thonglor is nothing like the true coffee in siam square is nothing like the true coffee in the mall bangkapi...
the one in siam paragon is definitely a stand-out. you have to at least check it out and give it a good walk-through. true urban park's forward-thinking prototype for a coffee shop, music shop, and book store is a feast for the senses. plug your ipod into the table and listen from within a plastic head-pod-thingy, buy audio electronics and accessories, browse the web, sip a peppermint patty latte, and peruse through some shelves of books.in case that's not enough stimulus, buy some fresh flowers, gnosh on a sandwich, stare at the giant flippy wall as it switches, or watch thailand's big brother version of american idol projected on a giant wall screen.

true urban park, siam paragon, 3rd floor.
10am-10pm. true wi-fi available.

i now understand how kobe cattle feel

bangkok marriott resort & spa

since i'm officially a bangkok resident, there aren't many opportunities to stay in hotels. well, that, and i don't have enough money to hotel hop. a friend recently came to visit and invited me to come join her vacation-o-luxury. i just have to say:
I LOVE THE BANGKOK MARRIOTT RESORT & SPA

i've visited (but not stayed at) other top hotels in bangkok, of which the best are along the chao praya river, but this one, in my opinion is the one i recommend to anyone looking to be treated like royalty. turn down service, broadband internet, fresh fruit, featherbeds, robes and slippers add those nice touches to your stay in the room, but it's the hotel grounds that keep you from wanting to ever leave again.

i believe i've figured out the technique to transform my body into lazy, tender kobe meat:

step 1: consume large amounts of delicious, decadent food.
the three i tried were the following (in order of enjoyment):
trader vic's in the US is mediocre, unfortunately, skewing my expectations to be low. however, despite the second-rate name, is a fantastic pacific rim fusion restaurant. everything we ordered was matched beautifully, blending flavors well and using the most quality ingredients. if i didn't feel bad for my friend who was paying, i would have ordered the wagyu. highlights: tuna sesame encrusted diakon radish with wasabi mayo topped by caviar; avacado gazpacho with green apple and watercress; lamb yakitori with eggplant and mushrooms, sided by a rich pumpkin puree (900B); and crispy red duck and foie gras, with bok choy and apple taro cake (800B). you're drooling, aren't you? trust me, if your wallet's thick, you want to eat here.

riverside terrace which was an outdoor buffet on the patio overlooking the chao phraya river. lots of goodies including teppanyaki, crepes, mongolian bbq, italian pastas and pizza to order, grill, indian, oyster/shellfish bar, and an extensive dessert spread. thai boxing and traditional thai performance (dancing/acting) throughout the evening. priced at 1100B/person + 10% service, buffet dinner 6-10:30

numero uno cafe is a nice little chocolate shop and deli/bakery with an alluring display of pastries and sweets. a la carte menu with pastries, deli sandwiches and lunch fare, fondues, and chocolates. roughly 160-510B for breakfast, lunch or dinner. i got to try both their chocolate afternoon tea buffet as well as their after-dinner cheese/chocolate and cognac buffet (both 500B). have i ever told you i have problems with self-control? though they're meant to be post-meal treats, they became my meals. beware, my brothers and sisters with poor self-control, these are small, but very calorific buffets. cherry chocolate cake. nice presentation, eh?

in addition to these restaurants, they also have these spots that i didn't try:
benihana - japanese grill, teppanyaki okonomi (370-4900B). a little grill show as your meal's cooked.
the market - breakfast buffet. a la carte 95-510B. lunch/dinner 699 buffet. noodles, sushi, etc. 170-980
rice mill - chinese, dim sum 180-3000B

and for bars:
elephant bar - tapas, fusion bar food 175-295B
longtail bar - riverside, live music "kim" 170-980B bbq grill food - light fare
loy nam - pool bar, snacks and salads 180-300B

step 2: get a massage.
nothing says "pampered" like a great massage. the mandara spa (also available in room or poolside) offers steams 950, wraps 3-4k, scrubs 2-3k, massages 2250-5520, poultices 3200, facials 2700-5520, baths 950, steams 950, men's stuff 4k-9500. i got a deep tissue massage

step 3: be sedentary and expend as little physical energy as possible.
though the marriott resort has a fitness center with tennis and fitness classes, you should avoid them if you hope to keep your body marbled with fat. the thai cooking classes may be ok, though, if you maintain a very slow pace and try not to move too much while cooking. the pool is the perfect place to work on your golden tan while using little-to-no energy.

but if you decide to veer off the course of kobe cultivation, this place also has:
- manohra cruise - old rice barges converted into personal cruise ships. dinners or overnight cruise to ayutthaya.
- it's own malls and shopping.
- the hotel grounds are also beautiful decorated with lush tropical gardens.

bangkok marriott resort & spa. 257 charoen nakhon @ krungthep bridge. 02-476-0021
room rates between 5,400B-42,000B (if you're a guest, you receive coupons to all the restaurants)
webby: http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/bkkth-bangkok-marriott-resort-and-spa/

these legs aren't just for show.

northeast chiang mai

i recently had the chance to retreat up to chiang mai and i LOVED IT. next time, i'm leaving more time to explore. i think i finally found out what these legs are for; needless to say, i trekked a lot.

first things first: lodging. i should mention that the purpose of going up to chiang mai was to retreat and pray, so we found a great retreat center that i would recommend to anyone looking to pray and practice silence/solitude.
seven fountains spirituality center on hway kaew rd, near chiang mai university is a jesuit center specifically for contemplative retreats. it's simple, affordable, and has thought of everything. rooms are 500B or 600B (AC) per night (they only have single rooms), includes all meals (simple but good and satisfying), there's free laundry service available, library, labyrinth, coffee/tea/ovaltine available all over the grounds, and simple well-kept gardens and landscaping. the only thing they don't have that you should not forget is mosquito repellent.
strict silence observed. daily mass in english at 6 for retreatants, mass in thai twice daily. spiritual direction available.
the simplicity and serenity of the center is super conducive to a slower paced life and i felt very cared for. love jesuits.
seven fountains spirituality center @ 97 hway kaew rd, 50300
tel: 053 211076, 053 892545; web: htty://7fountains.wordpress.com; email: jesuits@cmnet.co.th
proximity to other places of interests is another plus...keep reading.

doi suthep-pui national park
just a little walk up hway kaew road, you reach the chiang mai zoo where you can catch a songtaew up the doi suthep mountain for 40B. if you want to use those things-they-call-legs, walk past the songtaews, and take a left at the fork in the road to reach the hway kaew waterfall, which is free! hway kaew waterfall is a series of waterfall starting at the entrance and other spots to stop about .5-2km up the mountain, including wang bua ban pond (named after a woman who committed suicide over her lover who moved to bangkok) and pha ngerb which is a rolling waterfall over large boulder and rock formations. and a beautiful view over chiang mai at an overlook on the path. up the road another 3km, you'll reach the entrance to mon tha than waterfall. it's another 3km into the actual waterfall, so if you walk, expect a lengthy hike.

babylon italian restaurant
this is where "thai godfather" should be filmed. very dimly lit, a little dingy, and homey yet with a tiny creep-factor. this place has to be mafia because of how good the food is. their homemade pasta is fantastic, their sauces so comforting and spot-on with flavor, and they don't skimp on the size or ingredients. standouts were the spinach malfatti (gnocchi) in marinara (140B), extra-wide fettucini which we had with their osso bucco (220), and their macaroni siliciliana (180) with eggplant, piquant meatballs, mushroom, and basil in marinara. wait, let me wipe me drool off my keyboard.
i highly recommend anything with their robust tomato sauce and pastas made on-site. simply fantastic.desserts were decent, but a little amiss. all their ice creams (50) taste a little goaty (i guess thai cows produce goaty milk) and on the icier side of the spectrum. blackprune ice cream was very icy and so pruny, that once it was topped with prune sauce, it was just as if we were eating a frozen prune. you'd be better off heading down to milk garden after the meal.
babylon restaurant, 100/63 hway kaew rd.

milk garden (suan nom)
milk garden, also on hway kaew rd., in between seven fountains and babylon restaurant, is a hip, eclectic little cafe packed with students.
come for toast, smoothie, or yogurt. because it's right down the street from a dairy, it has wonderful milk offerings. the yogurt (35B) was a delicious, refreshing bowl of yogurt mixed with crushed ice with whatever fresh fruit you want.
in addition to their menu, milk garden also sells handmade mugs, dolls, bracelets, and other crafty items. think: cool DIY crafts, not your grandma's embroidery crafts. this whole place feels creative and trendy, but not without its requisite thai cuteness. instead of having table numbers, you pick out a stuffed doll so your server can identify your table.

happy hut
honorable mention of the trip: coconut based ice cream from happy hut. homemade by a friend of the owner, the ice cream (20B) comes in a smattering of intriguing flavors: black sesame, black sticky rice pudding, pomegranate, thai ice tea,etc.). very tasty, and since it's coconut based, lacks the heavy coated aftermath. bunch of coffee drinks, too.
happy hut, corner of nimmanahaeminda soi 3

it's all about how you present yourself

vanilla cafe

stepping into the vanilla compound, i mean, courtyard, is walking into a fantastical hidden alcove. forget feeling like you're in bangkok. it's no surprise that there's japanese behind this place; they've mastered aesthetics.
hedging the meticulously manicured lawn and courtyard, we've got the trifecta: sauce bookstore on the left, vanilla cafe in the back, and royal vanilla restaurant on the right.

sauce's two levels of books specially feature cookbooks to provoke your salivary glands to pavlovian activity. i'm sure it's not accidental. especially for someone like me, who is the easiest sell when it comes to advertisements appealing to carnal appetite. fear not, you're close to vanilla's two restaurants, conveniently planted adjacent to the book store. aside from the cookbooks and japanese titles, sauce also has a nice stock of trendy-yet-simple tote bags, t-shirts, and gifts.vanilla cafe in the center has the feel of your father's office, if your father was into retro design and aesthetically anal in his collection of vintage action figures and clocks. in the area of refreshments, vanilla's selection is pretty wide - hitting a large japanese selection and dim sum in addition to their pastries and coffees and sandwiches. beautiful, but lacking in taste: macadamia latte had no macadamia flavor at all (i honestly thought they had just given me a regular latte) and their peanut butter brownie (40) was too sugary and not chocolatey or peanutty enough. i did really enjoy their strawberry daifuku (35B), though (fresh strawberry wrapped in red bean paste and delicately held in a soft mochi cover) and their lime frost.
also, one point off my experience of vanilla cafe: i had my notebook out and was taking notes on their menu and a waiter came to scold me and yanked the menu away. i asked for a reason and was refused the courtesy. boo.vanilla cafe, sauce bookstore, royal vanilla. 53 ekkamai (sukhumvit 63) soi 12
coffees 60-110B, smoothies 130-150B,

cheesecake factory: bangkok style

coffee beans by daoone thing i'm realizing about bangkok is that the names of restaurants don't always give a proper expectation of what the restaurant will be like. you name a place coffee beans by dao and you think "coffee shop." well, get used to being wrong. coffee beans by dao is just a restaurant with good desserts. coffee here is more of an idea and don't expect to lounge in plush seating all day.

entrees are decent, though nothing special; a mix of thai, chinese and a little western accent at times. save yourself some baht and eat dinner from a street stand before you come. especially since they tack on an extra 17% service fee to your bill.

the real standout is their desserts. an at-capacity glass case full of western-style cakes, cheesecakes, and pastries, you have to spend a drooly few minutes ogling the sweets. we chose 5 items: mango cheesecake, caramel cheesecake, new york cheesecake, and carrot cake. carrot cake wins out by far - fresh, aromatic, made with thick carrot shreds and iced with a tangy, non-sugary cream cheese frosting. all their cheese cakes were good; made with thick, crunchy, buttery crusts and on the lighter/creamier side of cheesecakes (don't expect your standard cardiac-arrest-via dairy new york cheesecake). all good, with my favorite cheesecake being the caramel (with glazed walnuts). i do have a penchant for nuts, though. take it as you will.

my best advice: come ogle the desserts and buy some slices to go.
coffee beans by dao. 47 ekkamai soi 12 (ekkamai is sukhumvit 63).
other locations at: central world, 20/12-15 ruamrudee (ploenchit)
appetizers/salads 90-335B, mains 140-650B (though generally around 200), desserts around 100-200B, ogling free.
don't forget to add 17% service charge.

sweet oasis

ann's sweet

parched. so parched. must. find. air. conditioning...preferably with lattes.
finding an aircon cafe in the banglumpu/kao san area was a little harder than i expected. poo on those hippies and their preference for balmy bungalow cafes.

ann's sweet was such a nice, climate-controlled little bakery and coffee shop to duck into before the rained poured. situated at the bend between phra athit and phra sumen, across the street from santichaiprakan park (prasumen fort), this bakery has really great pastries. because of its tiny size (about 4 square tables), i asked where the pastries came from and was surprised to find that the owner and namesake of the shop bakes them all herself in the back. she's actually still a culinary student and is making desserts as she learns them.
i was very impressed with her cute, mini strawberry cheesecakes (120B) with a strawberry cheesecake layer (as opposed to a strawberry topping), which were deliciously velvety and rich, and pleased to find a little pineapple blended into it. i like that she twists an original just a tad. paired with a full-bodied lavazza latte (60B), i was set to wait out the downpour.
the only downside is that the seating isn't exactly what i would call "comfortable." blocky, wood furniture with tables that have a shelf underneath the glass top, holding a lot of fun and entertaining magazines, but also making about 3 inches of space between the chair and table for your legs. don't expect them to fit. they won't.

her other pastries include a triple chocolate mousse (120B), brownies (25B), and trifles (80B) among other things. full lavazza coffee menu and an extensive selection of teas.
don't feel like pastries? have some of their iberry ice creams.

ann's sweet. thanon phra athit, across from santichaiprakan park (fort phrasumen), banglumpu.
hours 5am-8pm (8:30p on weekends). 06-889 1383

wait your turn, bub

12 อร่อย ซาลาเปา (12 aroy salapao)

crowds around food always pique my curiosity. especially if they're waiting.
i just joined the line of chinese thai folks waiting around stacks of steamers at '12 aroy salapao.' and i ended up being the only one who didn't buy a batch. being chinese, i've had a few salapao buns (chinese: bao zi) in my lifetime and they're usually pretty run of the mill: airy white bread encasing a sweet or savory filling. good for on-the-go.
i tried a black sesame paste bun fresh out of the steamer. i have never had a fluffier, lighter bun with a just-sweet-enough black sesame paste. i had no idea salapao could be so much better than what i'd had before. no savoring possible. next time i'm getting one of each filling.

flavors: red bean, black sesame, cream, ground pork, and red pork (18B). taro and ba gway (20B).
12 aroy salapao (look for '12'), 53 thanon mahannop (at the corner of trok wat mahanop 1) , rattanakosin
18-20B per bun

ruby ruby ruby rubyyyyy (tribute to the kaiser chiefs)

ทับทิมกรอบ (tup tim grob)

tup tim grob. literally translated they mean "crunchy rubies." ruby is also the word for pomegranates - see the resemblance to their seeds? i stinkin' love these little buggers, and the best i've had is from Lek (below, in red). what they are like little water chestnut mochis in shaved ice and coconut milk. super refreshing in scorching thailand with just the right mix of chewy and crispy. Lek specially smokes fragrance into her tup tim grob, making them particularly aromatic.

Lek has lots of other things you can have in shaved ice, but she's famous for her tup tim grob. She sells in conjunction with a boat-noodle soup stand (the kind made with cow's blood - it's actually good) so you can come for a complete meal for cheap. during the week, this place is always packed. Lek's little stand - "tup tim grob", pratunam boat pier (under the awning, past the tattoo shop)
15B a bowl. closed weekends.

wrong side of the river

damnoen saduak floating market

hearkening back to the thai days of old when daily life centered around canals and rivers and boating was a major form of transportation, damnoen saduak floating market has preserved a microcosm of thai traditional life along the river...plus a few hundred foreigners.more than anything, damnoen saduak is a good photo spot, catching vendors selling from hand-paddled longboats. there are also some decent eats from boat vendors. but, i'd recommend heading to other places to get a more authentic taste of thailand.i was surprised at how small the floating market is: take a stroll down both sides of the canal and you'll be back to your starting point in half-an-hour. in general, i was underwhelmed by the place; it felt a little contrived and hokey, like people dressed as wenches and peasants for a renaissance fair. you could buy your typical tzatchkis here, though you'll get a better price for the same things at any other market in bangkok. and after 10am the canal was a boat-to-boat jam of all the longboats of foreigners in the canal. i'm not sure how true this is, but a curious anecdote about damnoen saduak i learned from my thai studies is that it's a bit like the shepherdsons and grangerfords of huck finn. apparently, the two banks of the canal have feuded for years, creating a competitive and self-serving culture. after visiting amphawa floating market, just 13km away, i realized what a floating market could be. go there instead.