i will fist-fight any person who disputes the superiority of belgian beers. traveling belgium this past spring, it was a personal goal to have a glass of beer in one hand and a cone of pommes frites in the other. i almost cried when luggage restrictions kept me from packing any beers in baggage on the way back to bangkok..
thank god for house of beers, bangkok's happy belgian beer home. they carry 3 of 6 of the belgian trappistes (rochefort, chimay, orval) and a hefty list of other notable bottles (leffe, tripel karmaliet, waterloo, maredsous). you have to trust a brewing tradition that has its origins in trappist monasteries. god himself told them how to make beers. didn't you know that "jehovah brewmaster" is one of god's titles in the old testament? here, true to its name, it really is about the beer - no skimpily dressed waitresses, no extensive food menu, just beer, mussels, and a few other items. and expect to pay for your beer love - they run upwards of 250B for an imported bottle.
personal favorites?
chimay blue: been my favorite beer for years. this one converted me to belgians. just drink one.
tripel karmaliet: surprisingly intensely flavorful with high alc content for a light beer. the triple distillation's no joke.
rochefort 8: out of rochefort's 6, 8, and 10, i think 8's the best. rich maltiness in a clean, dark beer.
maredsous: if you're looking for something a little unusual, try this monastery's beer. slightly more acidic with a distinct peanutty flavor.
waterloo double dark: tried it at HOB for the first time. smooth, creamy, malty - a beautiful dark.
in this coffee-saturated city, kuppa is the only place i've found that roasts their own coffee beans imported from across the globe. impressed and delighted as i was, i didn't buy any because it's REALLY expensive (it's on par with san francisco or new york prices). that pretty much sums up my kuppa experience: impressed, delighted, price-shocked.
kuppa's ambiance is elegant, open and assuredly casual - oooh. their pastry case houses horking, drool-inducing, showboat desserts - ahhh. they proudly display their curious coffee roasters and serve excellent coffee - oooh. culinary standards are executed with superb quality (eggs benedict, sorbets, pastas) - oooh. their confident, spot-on creativity makes you want to slap someone (duck, salmon) - ahhh. the bill...WHAAAA?
introduction: get a salad. they're really big (enough to feed several people) and fittingly dressed. 3 of us ordered the mixed salad (160B) and roasted vegetables (195B) which went nicely together. body 1: i have a weakness for duck prepared in its own fat (doesn't that sound unkosher?). duck confit with watercress, orange sauce (495). i was skeptical of the orange sauce; now i'm a believer. body 2: miso salmon (420), was one of 3 offerings of salmon. tasty. pesto shrimp pizza (295) was on the cheesier end of the spectrum. i probably wouldn't get it again. body 3: eggs benedict. you gotta love a breakfast-all-day place, especially one that makes a mean eggs benedict. thank god for angioplasties. conclusion: topped off with a happy, pistachio crepe (195) & fresh fruit with lychee sorbet (195) that makes your brain override your stomach's fullness.
for those with no need to be concerned with cost, kuppa is a sure-fire win. the food is undebatably delicious. the venue is charming and classy and relaxed. for those with a budget, start saving or start convincing yourself it's a kuppa sour grapes.
maybe i can find a rich boyfriend...
kuppa, 39 sukh 16. (bts: asoke) 10a-11:30p, closed every last monday of the month. 02-663 0495 closed every last monday of the month
one gets the distinct feeling of crossing into another time when entering the mandarin oriental...classy, ornate, luxurious colonialism. what gives you that cozy imperial feel at the mandarin oriental? aside from ac, the main areas of the hotel remain cloaked in british colonial decor, the thai staff in 19th century waitstaff garb, a string quartet serenades lobby loungers with classical chamber music.
overall, i'd have to say my opinion of the mandarin oriental is mixed (though, i do need to qualify that because i have yet to stay as a hotel guest). the property is beautiful and enchanting, quality superb, but i never felt terribly comfortable any of the times i've dined at the mandarin oriental because service has been slightly spotty, and - maybe i'm crazy - but, you get the feeling of being watched and evaluated.
no one will dispute that cuisine at the mandarin oriental is delicious and a sensually wonderful experience. so, here are my 3 dining ratings in order of preference.
1. barbecue terrace. situated on the outdoor patio adjacent to the chao phraya river, the balmy, lamplit dinner buffet is unlike most buffet incarnations. though extensive in its own right, this buffet is about quality, not quantity. duck liver mousse, rack of lamb, sirloin steak, inventive herbed salads, grilled horseshoe crabs, i couldn't stop saying "wow! this is amazing." this is the first buffet ever where i've taken my time. each dish is able to stand on its own. i still dream about it and my mouth is totally watering as i write this. service at the buffet is also exemplary; attentive while not overbearing, the waitstaff kept our table clean and deftly anticipated our beverage and flatware needs (honestly, it was like over 12 pieces of silverware). yeah, that's why it's 2,200B. as god as my witness, i will satiate my hunger there again! (sorry, i didn't take pictures, it felt too plebeian)
2. high tea in the author's lounge. sunned and couched in wicker and rattan british garden furniture, sepia pictures of the royal family line the walls over shelves of literature by joseph conrad and other authors who have stayed at the mandarin oriental, high tea is a unique affair that's worth a try (if you're into dainty teas). one set (1050B) including a pot of tea, finger sandwiches and pastries is good for 2 people for a light lunch. the plain scone was fantastic as was the white jasmine and the signature oriental blend teas. definitely do not get the thai tea set - you can get the same ordinary thai desserts anywhere else for a tenth of the price. no reservations. my two beefs with the afternoon tea are 1. pricey for a standard tea and 2. service was on the snootier side (we actually complained to the management).3. verandah. also situated on the outdoor patio over the chao phraya river, this is the "affordable" elegant dining option. entrees ranging from 200-500B, they're respectable dishes hitting both sides of the western and thai spectrum. perhaps the most casual of its restaurants, the verandah is a great place to have your lively, smart conversation. sound service.i do need to also mention that the mandarin oriental has a batch of other restaurants including: le normandie, lord jim's, sala rim naam, the china house, ciao, and bamboo bar and also a spa across the river.
mandarin oriental hotel. 48 oriental ave, off of charoen krung (closest bts at saphan taksin - complimentary boat shuttle at the pier)
*newsflash* i've heard that because of the economic downturn, and along with other hotels, the mandarin oriental is offering special promotions in their restaurants as well, including sunday brunches at select restaurants and such. webby: mandarinoriental.com/bangkok and a snazzy little brochure
now cambodia's top travel and tourist destination, surpassing phnom penh, siem reap means "the siamese were defeated." siem reap is smaller than expected with most of its recreation activities being angkor wat or one of the myriad ngo's.
angkor wat archaelogical park enough angkor wat pictures, already! everybody does angkor wat at sunset, pb at sunset or maybe pre rup and how can you forget ta phrom with the giant trees growing out of the temple. depending on your adventurousness and temple-interest, you could spend up to 3 full days exploring. i got templed out and made small jaunts out to frolic in the ruins. it's grand and inspiring nonetheless. i particularly liked that so many of the facades were pleasantly smiling figures; it lends a playfulness to the wear of time.
artisans d'angkor ngo dedicated to artistic conservation and education. head over to their lacquerware complex or their silk farm to take a tour of their facilities, watch art being made and taught and buy some pricey, high-quality souveneirs.
webby: www.artisansdangkor.com
fcc - the fcc complex hosts a few small galleries most interesting being the red gallery, featuring contemporary cambodian artists and the mcdermott gallery, showcasing john mcdermott's iconic and ethereal photography of angkor wat.located at pokambor ave. webby: www.fcccambodia.com/angkor
eats:butterflies garden restaurant boasts a meal amongst a tropical butterfly garden. i think i saw like 3 butterflies. decent cambodian and western menu.
webby: www.butterfliesofangkor.com
streetside "plai tuek-doh koh" or "milk fruit" tastes like a larger, softer, very sweet and refreshing persimmon. very nice. fcc - also at this hotel complex, resides chic and cosmopolitan haute cuisine in the open air. happy hour ($1 draft beers, 50% off all other drinks). fresh, verdant salads. moroccan beef sandwich was superb topped with pickled carrots and goat cheese, sided by potato straws. webby: http://www.fcccambodia.com/angkor/angelina's - loose beef baguette burger. it doesn't say it's "loose beef," but i like that phrase and that's what it is. angelic, pillowy baguettes made by ecole hotel's culinary school; i bought a half-dozen loaves to bring back to thailand. located in the old market area.
the strong of heart and stomach can try the street cambodian baguettes - fatty braised pork belly, green papaya salad (more relish-like), au jus, chili sauce, cucumber. i prefer the vietnamese incarnation, but this one's a dollar full stomach.
accomodations: pavillion d'orient in addition to the many charms of pavillion d'orient they have all the comforts you need (read: want): saltwater pool, spa, unlimited wi-fi, above and beyond service, personal driver, nightly cambodian bedtime story (and movie guide). it's the small surprises that endear. i promise that you will adore this place.webby: http://www.pavillon-orient-hotel.com/
here are my top 10 handy dandy travel tips to siem reap:
1. bring plenty of $1USD bills. i found it easier to get around on US cash than changing to cambodian riel or using thai baht (the exch isn't as good for baht). things are so cheap that you could get by solely on $1s and $5s.
2. drink the surprisingly good and local angkor beer and abc stout (8%alc!)
3. be a generous tipper. most hotel workers (or other vocations at that level) earn about $50-60/mo even at luxury resorts, keeping them in working poverty. a couple extra dollars is trivial for you and makes a huge difference for those who are serving you.
4. enjoy the cambodians. don't overlook these resilient, kind and gentle people. try to hear some of their stories; i'm amazed over and again.
5. eat bread. being a former french protectorate, delicious baguettes and croissants abound. i gasped when i first tasted such a flaky, light, buttery croissant my first morning.
6. do your research - not all ngos are beneficial to cambodians. check into them before donating.
7. take it easy. unlike other tourist destinations, siem reap is pretty small and doesn't have much other than angkor wat and some smaller attractions. stop running around and enjoy your company.
8. buy a krama or scarf. they're cheap, they're versatile, they're currently hip in the west, and you can find them virtually anywhere.
9. keep your smile on. nobody likes a sourpuss. and don't be an ass to the kids and vendors selling souveneirs.
10. get your visa online at e-visa. so much easier and quicker than applying for a visa on arrival. http://www.mfaic.gov.kh/e-visa/vindex.aspx
hands down, the best thing about the witch's tavern is their wednesday lady's night. it makes me proud to have two glorious X chromosomes to partake in opportunities like this (i.e. free booze). every wednesday 5pm-9pm, all ladies drink free from a selected menu (chang beer & well drinks). it is oh-so-satisfying to receive your bill at the end of the night with a long list of zeros. i like the look of this place: a distinctly southern, 2-story pale yellow mansion with bar seats, tables, booths, and couches - sit wherever your butt desires. a great bangkok bar/pub with an drool-inspiring expansive menu (tapas to burgers to chinese to thai) but will take a formidable chunk out of your wallet and sadly not that good. judging from the menu, it really seems like their food would be good, but don't expect much. their spanish tapas (240B) were mundane and bland comprising chorizo, a few olives, garlic mussels, and toast. eddie's burger (290B) was decent: hearty portion, on a good homemade bun, but too salty and over-seasoned and dry. margherita pizza (220B) was just a normal thin-crust cheese pizza with dried basil sprinkled on top. and do not be tempted by the apple&blackberry crumble (170B) which was just warmed-up apple chunks and a couple blackberries mixed with a bland vanilla pudding and handful of semi-sweet crumbs. food = disappointing.
one thing that makes witch's tavern stand out among bangkok bars is its extensive cocktail menu with old faves and new twists. as tasty and as interesting as they sound, i have yet to try such an expensive drinky.
the bar island floats in the middle of the large 2 story room with seating surrounding. not great ambience for having conversations (it's pretty loud), but nice to chill and listen to the jazz band. outdoor seating available (i.e. get your own drink at the bar and drink it outside).
oh and all you bingo-lovers: free bingo on wednesday nights. one round at 11pm, jackpot anywhere between 3000B-15,000B. happy hour 5-8pm: buy one local beer, get one free.
any place that has "gastrocafe" in it's name has to be worthy of a check out. (also, any place with really plush seating is worthy of a check out).
savoury gastrocafe is the meeting of many contradictory things: s.e. asia meets france. utilitarian meets frivolity, clean, definite lines meets velvety sofas. and i LIKE it. it ended up being a nice find since we weren't expecting much in the food court of siam paragon, but this little philippe starck-esque cafe was a perfect place to relax for a few hours while sipping iced drinks . all the food other patrons were eating was a little hard to not stare at. most of their food is less fusion and more separate-but-equal thai and french-esque. i'm definitely going again. high marks on everything: - environment - one of the only restaurants i've found that prefers silence over background music, options for seating, mid-bright lighting, waiters are attentive but let you do your thing. - eats - delish. by biggest beef with fusion food is that it can often just mean blander, but all of the entrees and desserts were rich and delicious. pan-fried baby sea bass with herbed butter was well-seasoned (yeah, i sopped up all the butter. sue me.). duck confit was a fantastic combination of crispy duck served with grilled eggplant, squash and such. - desserts. oh, the desserts. you could go for just desserts. the almond dacquois was fantastic - very nutty, moist, perfect ratio of pastry-to-cream-to-fresh-fruit. flourless chocolate cake was decadent. crunchy almond meringue with candied almonds layered with a smooth, light custard was divine, though you can't eat it without completely destroying it. the strawberry millefeuille 3 flaky layers of pastry, berries, and cream were light topping a generous lake of strawberry melba sauce. sweet pea flower lemonade was light and pure and blue until you add the lime juice. almond dacquois, with fresh fruit and fresh strawberry puree. sweet pea lemonade (which is actually limeade) behind.
savoury gastrocafe: lowest level of siam paragon in siam square. drinks around 100-200B, entrees around 250+B, desserts 100-200B.
johnny depp. musical theater (or theatre if you feel so inclined). one guy. sorry, dave. unfortunately, the conversation wasn't guy-friendly, but thankfully, the food made up for it.
crepes & co. was a little on the pricier side for crepes, but you gotta get the namesake of the restaurant. it was nice that we had a large enough group to have a little taste of a variety of sundries. there's a little more of a mediterranean-euro flare to their dishes, which makes the french crepe a little more interesting. favorites were unfortunately, i didn't have the foresight to jot down which crepes we ate, but all the sweet, savory and dessert crepes we got were fantastic. i really liked one that had a camembert, fruit, and walnuts with honey (drool). and the sangria was irresistible.
crepes & co. has great indoor and outdoor seating, with a contemporary, dark wood/canvas style of decor. candlelit, spacious, natural, tropical bungalow feel.
crepes (sweet and savory) range from 150-300B. drinks 50-200B (depending on alcohol) located at 18/1 sukhumvit soi 12 (closest BTS @ asoke) webby: www.crepes.co.th
